Posts: 501
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2005
I am planning to make a set of cabinets. After seeing the article in FWW #196 - Norm Abrams 20 tips for better kitchen cabinets, I want to add a bead to the face frame. What width are you using for the bead? Seems like 1/4 inch would work, but i've never done it.
Also, do you adjust the width of the face frame for the 1/4 inch bead. I've always used Kreg jig and 1-1/2 inch width for the face frames. Should I reduce the face frame width to 1-1/4 inch and attach an assumed 1/4 inch bead to come up with 1-1/2 or just go with 1-3/4?
The advantage of using 1-1/2 is the 3/4 inch side plus a 3/4 inch spacer brings the drawer slide flush with the face frame, more than that and I have to find or make 1 inch think material for the spacer. Not a big deal, but I like using up the plywood scraps for spacers. Spacers aren't a problem with overlay, but with inset they are required. Using KV8417 self closing full extension slides.
Hinge I'm planning to use calls for 1/16 spacing on the sides. With 3/4 inch thick doors and butt hinges, approximately how much space do I need between the doors where they meet in the center?
The more you know, the less you need
Posts: 3,215
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2006
Have you looked at the Kreg beaded face from system? I will admit that I'm not real big on shop gadgets but one came with the Kreg router table setup I bought used. I'm in the process of building new cabinets for my kitchen with inset doors and beaded face frames. I can't even tell you how much time it saved me. I was very skeptical at first and just planned to do the beading old school style because that is what I know but I'm glad I gave the gadget a chance. It has literally saved me hours building the face frames.
In a related story I WILL NOT be buying a dovetail jig
Posts: 13,485
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 1999
The size of the bead and the width of the FF is TOTALLY a decision of choice. I recommend you do a couple of polar mock ups to see what you like.
Haunching beaded frames is not really difficult, but requires a LOT of precision in your cuts. I would NEVER do it without a haunching bit. I used to have to make my own by removing the bearing from a chamfer bit and grinding off the stud. Now you can but them.
It is pretty easy to haunch the ends of the parts, but haunching in the middle of a part has to be done with real accuracy to insure everything lines up.
Adding the beading after the fact is pretty fool proof, but haunching the beaded parts is a nice skill set to develop.
Ralph
Posts: 2,230
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2007
I just bought one of those off cragislist. Well technically a few months ago, but haven't used it yet. I'm redoing my mom's kitchen cabinets next month and plan to put it to use. I'm glad it's as easy to use as advertised. Anything to watch out for, or do the directions pretty much cover everything?
Posts: 6,755
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2001
Location: Post Falls, ID
I built several cabinets for a guy a few years ago, and he wanted beading on the inset of the faceframes. I kinda cheated. I made the faceframes and installed them,
then I made bead strips that I attached to the frames. To make the beaded strips, I jointed and ripped parallel my stock, then ran both sides through a beading bit on the router table. I had my tablesaw set up with a thin-rip jig - at about 1/4" - to cut off the bead. The beaded strips were cut on the CMS to fit and then glued and pin-nailed on the inside frames.
I was able to do several pieces at at time this way - which really saved a lot of time - so I could move right a long. And they didn't turn out too bad...
And with a
bunch of cabinets, saving time was a good thing. This about a quarter of them.
Dave
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
Posts: 608
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2005
I did the same thing on some bathroom vanity cabinets. It worked very well and the family love them.
War Eagle!
Posts: 12,457
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
I've seen that Kreg system on a TV woodworking show that most of us (including me) like to hate. It did look like a very good idea. In watching it in use I had assumed (incorrectly perhaps) that you needed the Kreg router table to use it.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 1,806
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2010
MLCS also offers a beaded face frame bit set 49.95 I do not have one but most there tools are Ok for occasional use
I have seen the kreg face frame tools demonstrated and like Fred I believe you would need there table to go with It
I built a vanity with beaded frame just did it like big Dave made the beaded part with a thin rip jig and router bit and glued it in the opening it turned out good
Posts: 501
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2005
I was planning to use a beading bit in the router, rip the strip off on the table saw (using a stop on the left side of the saw so I don't have thin rip against the fence) and then attaching with 18 gauge brads. I may look into a beading plane. I would take a little longer for the larger pieces, but requires less setup if I need a few feet more, which always seems to happen.
Thanks for the advice, I'll check into the Kreg system as well.
The more you know, the less you need
Posts: 3,215
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2006
You do not need the Kreg table. You just need a t track to mount the jig in. One thing to keep in mind is if you are using a ¼” beading bit you will actually end up with a bout a 5/16” bead. Remember you have the bead that will be ¼” and the small flat after the bead which is roughly 1/16”. I’m guessing the bit that comes with the Kreg system is around 3/16”. In general I cut my beads and apply them because I am building period furniture and that is the way it should be done. That being said cutting, mitering and fitting all those beads on an entire kitchen would take a ton of time. I can’t say I would ever dream of using the beading jig on a piece of furniture but for cabinets it is great. I basically built an entire large kitchen’s worth of face frames and assembled them in one afternoon. I probably would have spent that much time just applying the bead.
To the question about the instructions I can’t really say. I didn’t use them. I looked at all the parts and figured out a way to use it for my application. I M&T then pin all my face frames together and I think the instructions are geared toward pocket hole screws which I don’t use. One thing I did do which is habit for me is make up set up blocks and sample pieces for everything. This keeps me from ruining my cabinet parts.
