BS guide options
#11
I have a ten year old MM16 and a couple of the guides are so gummed up with sawdust and grease they hardly rotate. They are the original euro guides.

Is there a way to rebuild the guides or is it better to replace them. I looked at Carter guides and they seem like they might do the trick, but the web site says I would need the "extended" option to run blades larger than 1".

Has anyone found a way to rebuild them? For those who have Carter guides, what are the pros and cons?
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#12
Not sure about the guides, except, can they be cleaned?

I would think a 1" blade on a 16" bs would be the max I would want to use.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#13
Do you mean the roller bearings themselves? If so, they should have a bearing number stamped onto the side of the hub. I replaced all 4 of mine on my Grizzly saw for about $5 a pair on Amazon... Cheap maintenance. As for upgrading, would you be happy with them if they worked better?
Benny

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#14
Quote:

I have a ten year old MM16 and a couple of the guides are so gummed up with sawdust and grease they hardly rotate. They are the original euro guides.




Remove the gummed up ones take them apart clean, lube and reinstall.

this is a maintenance item not a cause for spending money needlessly

Joe

Edit to add: I have a 1 1/4" band on my MM16 and it runs fine with OEM bearings.

Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#15
Unless you want to spend/waste money don't accept the temptation to buy guide bearings from the tool mfg. As mentioned, get the bearing number off the side and buy online or at a local bearing supply house. My Powermatic 14 needed bearing, the mfg cost was about $12-13/each, and I needed six of them. They are the same size as rollerblade/skateboard bearings and are available for about $5-6/for set of 8. The replacements have lasted longer than the original. I now keep spares on the shelf. You can clean and relubricate bearings, but difficult with sealed/shielded bearings. Ray
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#16
I added ceramic guides from Laguna to my MM20 - Laguna made me a deal on them - they were not really needed for sure. I do like them though.

Here is how I did it.

http://myplace.frontier.com/~unix888/lag...lbearingguides/


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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#17
Thanks, Joe. Is there an easy way to disassemble them? It was not readily apparent if they were press fit bearings or some other method of installation.

Likewise, I have some Lenox 1-1/4 CSharp blades I use for cutting big stuff.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#18
Actually they are just running in bronze bushings

I would take the back bearing out first, to see how they are assembled which is just a slip fit. you may have to get a screwdriver blade between the roller and the shaft and twist it to get it to come loose but once you do it is a matter of cleanup and some light oil to get them back in shape

out of the BS


pry between the bronze bushing and the roller. it will be tight but should pop out


then I take out the bronze bushing using a vice to hold the steel outer casing and pliers to twist and remove the bushing The shoulder may get tracks in it but I have not found it to be an issue I just clean them up once apart

That should leave you with 5 pieces the roller the casing the bushing a washer and the pin to hold the roller in place



clean up the parts use a little oil in the bushing and assemble the roller the bushing the washer and the pin on the back Tap the pin home



then just assemble the roller into the casing.



on the side load units you just unscrew the body from the housing ( I do this on the machine so it is stable) then remove the housing screws to finish taking them apart You may have to use a pair of pliers to help it come loose I am not tough enough to do it by hand



ON these I take the housings apart as well and clean up all the gunk in the threads. The shoulder in case you forget to look is toward the lock nut or the outside of the assembly

here it is reassembled



INstall all them back on the saw adjust as you normally do and you should be good to go

HTH

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#19
thanks!
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#20
Thanks Joe, I'll have to see if my Felder is made the same way.
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