Tormek grind out of square

[glzahn]

I just finished sharpening my chisels and noticed that they're not square. The wheel face is square to its sides, so it's not the wheel's problem. I know my chisels are flat against the side of the sharpening jig to they should be square to the wheel.....if the bar is parallel to the wheel as well.

I have the older Tormek 2000 and there's only one tightening screw holding the bar in place on the horizontal setting. I'm not sure why they designed it that way. The upper bar holder has two tightening screws.

Does the newer T7 bar holder with two locking screws fit the older 2000? And while I'm at it, why didn't they make the bar a T-type bar that extends past both wheels at the same time so you don't have to go back and setup the bar for honing?

[Foghorn]

The face of the wheel might be square to the sides, but the face really needs to be parallel to the arm across the front of it to work properly. That is why the wheel is dressed to ensure the grinding surface is parallel to the bar. Once that is done, your jig will be set up properly to ensure 90 angles.
So, go back to the step of dressing the surface of the wheel with the dressing jig and after that, you should be good to go.

[fredhargis]

Just a question: you're supposed to use the tool rest for honing? Something I've never done.

[Ohio Mike]

I make a square mark on the wheel with a fine tip marker



Then check the alignment of the wheel/bar/line. They should all agree.



Finally, I align the chisel with the line on the wheel and tighten the jig.




This method hasn't failed me yet.



Mike

[dry heat]

I had the same problem with my older Tormek and talked the CR years ago about it and they first sent me a new bar. After I had the same problem we had talks about how to tighten the clamp on chisels, plane irons etc. and I found that was most of my/their problem. I’m not sure but I think that somewhere in their instructions, maybe in the newer instruction book, there is a reference to this. Something about if it’s off one way tighten the left screw clamp and so on. I found that I have to go slow and be sure that the clamp screws are tightened as evenly as possible. May not be what causing your problem but worth a try.
ES

[CloseShave]

Gary,

I've had this happen to me too. I found that after checking the bar it was just slightly out of square. So, with a mallet and soft touch I managed to get it back into square. The other thing I do now is to flatten the stone more frequently. I base that frequency on how much work I do on the Tormek for a session.

I only use my Tormek when I'm regrinding the primary bevel. As I'm grinding I lift the blade often just to take a look at how the grind line is moving toward the tip of the blade. I want to see the if line is even across the bevel. If uneven I've found that if I put a bit more pressure on the low side it evens out. I've found the trick is to spot this unevenness early in the grinding process.

This approach solved my problem.

Steve

[bgeva]

I have T-3 and found that the overhanging part of the rest is too flexible. The result is when you press the tool holder a bit too strong it ends not completely square to the stone, so one side (usually closer to the "horns" of the rest is not deep enough. Annoying, but the simple solution is first to lock the center horn at the depth you need. Then lean a bit on the further (right) horn and lock it with a bit of tension. This compensates for flexibility. Not scientifically precise, but works.

BTW, I keep my stone true, but it does not matter, as every new depth setting creates the same issue.

BG

[glzahn]

fredhargis said:

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Just a question: you're supposed to use the tool rest for honing? Something I've never done.

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That's the way I've always done it, of course, that doesn't mean it's the correct way to do it. I know it's hard to believe....but I have been wrong before.