plywood repair question

[YSU65]

I am making some conference tables out of A1 walnut ply. I have been soooo careful with this stuff but I notice there is a compression smear on the top. I have very successfully used the steam iron trick to fix these problems in solid wood but don't know about ply. This ply had a wood core with MDF on the outer levels just under the walnut surface. The walnut is really really thin. The compression is not very deep. I tried a damp cloth but did not see any results.

My question is will the ply delaminate? Any other suggestions?

Thanks, Tom

[daveferg]

Tom----I feel badly about your problem, but have to ask you---if that veneer is so thin already, what do you think is going to happen in the future when things are placed, dropped, or scratched across that top in the future??? I think you're right to be hesitant considering how the filler material may react to a steam iron. Frankly, I think today's plywood, with it's micro-thin veneers is a poor choice for a furniture top.

My suggestions----if it's not too late, I'd replace the top with solid wood. If the project is almost finished, I'd consider buying some veneer to go over the top. They sell self-stick and backed veneer which is much easier to work with for a first timer. Hope this helps.

[jteneyck]

I don't think the veneer will delaminate, but I wonder if the steam will work. If the compression set is in the veneer it might; if it's in the MDF underneath I rather doubt it. Maybe you could try to reproduce the problem on some scrap and try steaming it to see if it works.

John

[Doug_H]

I agree with experimenting with scrap. MDF is wood-based and will swell when moisture level increases. I think the problem could be losing control of the repair procedure and getting a bump in place of the dent. So be careful.

Is the defect really that noticeable? I mean to somebody who is not stressed out about it? Do consider the possibility that the client will not notice it or not consider it a defect, especially after the finish darkens the surface.

BTW I have used such a product (in cherry) to make an entry bench for a family with kids. It has stood up well. However, I will avoid using it in the future for an item that may get hard use. I have used veneer core hardwood plywood for many (10+) dressers, tables etc. with good results. I hate the MDF core product.

Doug

[Steve N]

jteneyck said:

---

I don't think the veneer will delaminate, but I wonder if the steam will work. If the compression set is in the veneer it might; if it's in the MDF underneath I rather doubt it. Maybe you could try to reproduce the problem on some scrap and try steaming it to see if it works.

John

---

Worth repeating

[fredhargis]

The point about the MDF is worth considering. I have removed dents from lumber core ply using water and an iron, but have never tried it on the type with the MDF layer. Might be worth a test on a piece of scrap.

[YSU65]

Thanks for the information, I will try to repair a scrap piece today and let you all know my results.

Regarding the project, I got a request from my neighbor to build two conference tables for his business. They already have two existing tables and wanted two more matching tables.

There will be a glass top on the tables. I got three sheets of A1 walnut ply for the job. The cover walnut sheet is so thin I can barley see it. This stuff is heavy and I am 73, tough to muscle it around. Must have hit the corner of the bench while moving it. I don't normally use ply, like solid wood much better.

I can replace the damaged top with the last sheet if I have to. Two sheets were not enough for the job. I only needed several small pieces from the third sheet. Broke my heart to buy the third sheet but there was no other way out.

Now on another item, any good ideas how to use the excess walnut plywood?

Thanks again,
Tom

[jteneyck]

I've purchased A1 plywood a few times over the past 2 or 3 years, too, and it's still no guarantee of the quality we used to routinely see 10 or 15 years ago. As you said, the veneer is so thin on much of it that you can almost see through it. And if it's veneer core there's no saying the core will be truly flat. I bought some really high end Columbia stuff last year that had really tight specs on flatness - still had problems with it. I've had much better luck with veneered MDF to be honest. It's always dead flat, and the veneer seems to be thicker but maybe that's just what I want to believe. In any case, I choose it for any non structural application now. For structural applications I most often now make my own panels from shop sawn veneer and BB plywood, at least any that are smaller than about 3' x 5'. It takes a lot longer, but with 1/16" veneer on it the panel looks and behaves like solid wood as far as surviving dings, sanding, and finishing go.

John

[Paul K. Murphy]

I can offer something from the "other suggestions" category.
I think you might need the services of a spot refinisher. It's a difficult skill, and takes a great deal of practice. Most people with that need hire one of those guys/gals.
From the OP it sounds like this is a paying job. Right? This isn't hobby work?

[YSU65]

OK, here is an update.

Yes it is a paying job, neighbor wanted the tables for his firm.

I did have a good piece to replace the damaged top if need be but I wanted to try a repair first. The damage was about 4" long and about 3/16" wide. I could feel the depression as I ran my finger over it. I got a piece of cloth and rolled it to form a cylinder about 3/8" wide and as long as the ding. There was no fiber tearing, just a depression. I soaked the cloth in water and placed it over the damage. Then I put my wife's hot cloths iron on the wet cloth and steamed the area. This pretty much eliminated the depression. I then used my trusty card scraper to make everything in plane with the top. So far so good.

Now I could see that the damaged fibers were at a different orientation than the good material. This was visible if you looked at it a particular way, not all that noticeable. I then got 320 sandpaper and carefully took out more of the discolored material. I was very afraid of going through the very this top sheet. After sanding I added a few drops of MS and just about all of the visible difference is gone, just a bit by the edge. This would be pretty much what I would expect after the finish is applied.

Neighbor came over last night and I showed him the spot. He laughed and said that nobody at his office would ever ever notice something that faint. I am good to finish up everything. Woodworker hyper sensitivity I guess.

BTW, they had an open house Wednesday at his new location and they needed some small tables to help fill out the area. I had several Stickley oak Taborets in the shop that they took. They ended up liking one and bought it!!!

Thank you all for your suggestions, I really appreciate you taking the time to offer your knowledge on my problem. Tom