Why does the internal light bulb come on after I'm finished?
#7
I finished building my workbench/outfeed table for my SuperMax 19-38. I'm really pleased with the outcome. 30" x 60" x 2 1/4" thick maple top. The base is from the latest Fine Woodworking mag. Its built out of 1 x 12 x 8' beech boards I purchased from a woodnetter, long, long ago. Will post pics after I apply the finish.

One thing I didn't think of....until after I finished it. I usually like to cover the table top with a 1/4" or 1/2" piece of plywood or hardboard. When there's a potential for scratching or drilling into the top.

The SuperMax sits on top of the floor stand and it bolted through the stand into the bottom of the drumsander with four, 3/8" bolts 1 1/2" long. The bottom frame of the drumsander is 1 3/4" cast iron. I have four 3/8" x 1/2" high density plastic washers that I salvaged from something long, long ago.

My thought is to use those washers to raise the drumsander high enough to be able to cover the workbench when using it as the outfeed table. I would also buy 1/2" longer bolts to attach the sander to its base.

Does anyone see a problem with this?
Gary

Living under the radar, heading for "off the grid."

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#8
make your cover so it can drop on when you are not using it at the sander.

the stock is not going to tear it up , as you said drilling and cutting on it would however.

JMO
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#9
Heck, you could put a piece of 1/4" or 1/2" hardboard under it (or whatever you plan to use for the sacrificial piece) then they match in height automatically. By doing that the entire perimeter of the frame is still on the base.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#10
fredhargis said:


Heck, you could put a piece of 1/4" or 1/2" hardboard under it (or whatever you plan to use for the sacrificial piece) then they match in height automatically. By doing that the entire perimeter of the frame is still on the base.




That's why they pay you the big bucks
Gary

Living under the radar, heading for "off the grid."

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#11
While I appreciate your desire to avoid damage to the top, sometimes I wonder why fudge think that way, after all, its not a dining room table, its shop furniture, and I'd rather look at nice wood than hide it with hardboard. It is clearly personal preference, but in my case my TS outfeed table is made with pine, which I shellacked and it looked great, and then just used it for the last 15 years. Sure it's dinged up, and maybe has a few holes in it, but its still nicer to look at than a hardboard top.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#12
I totally agree. My TS outfeed table is walnut wrapped in maple. I do use a hardboard cover when gluing up and when I'm doing things that could mar it for life. Believe me, its got plenty of scratches.


I remove the hardboard cover when I'm not sanding or doing some activity that will damage the top.
Gary

Living under the radar, heading for "off the grid."

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