Anyone ever route end grain purpleheart?

[MSRiverdog]

I've been asked to finish a job started by someone else, he has a Purpleheart butcher block about 3 inches thick about 12 X 24 inches that was made up with 1 inch square stock, he wants it dished out 3/8 to 1/2 inch deep with a pattern. Making the pattern is no big deal there will be plenty of space for that, my concern is tear out and how deep the inevitable burning is going to be. I've already told him that if I did it would want to use new router bits, that Purpleheart had these issues and there would be a lot of hand sanding involved to get rid of the burn marks. I have visions of chips of Purpleheart ripping out at the speed of light. I don't know just what glue or how well the fellow that started this project did it was but it has its share of creep and the guy that had it made up is not pleased. I might also add that the owner supplied the wood of this paid a lot of money for a job not done.

[JGrout]

light passes and sharp router bits?

is the pattern is just a dish ( is there more) I do not see a lot of burning if you do it as above. Tear out internally does not even seem to be an issue in a dish; the bowl shape means the least amount of end grain exposed in the cutting especially if you use the above strategy

JMO

Joe

[Texan]

I would plan on many light passes, and make the last pass extremely light (like 1/64") to clean up any burn marks without creating new ones. I've never done exactly what you are doing here, but I have routed edges on end grain cutting boards without trouble. Another thing is keep the bit moving. If you pause, it will burn.

[Paul K. Murphy]

I think you will be fine.
The cut need not be viewed as a direct vertical attack on end grain, at least not throughout the entire feature.
Somewhere, some part of the dish will have to be approached in that manner. The router bit has to get to the depth required from the surface of the existing panel. After that, the attack can be from the side. Achieving the depth first and then sweeping the cut outward (sideways) will mean that you are cutting away whatever wood from the side.
I agree that light passes are best. I would also add that getting to the required depth shouldn't take place like the descent of an elevator. Instead, sweep the router in a line back and fourth, each time taking a (very modest) step toward the required depth.
Burning is more likely if the spinning bit lingers in any one place too long. It is minimized if the bit is moving. Your description was for a 3/8" to 1/2" dish. Don't try to get that all at once. Try for maybe a 1/8" dish done three times (or four) in the same place. Do it like cutting the grass. After your first line is cut, cut another alongside and etc. The first dish will also enable you to directly view the outcome without putting anything at risk. If 1/8" causes burning the first time it is even more likely to do so on the next 1/8", now that the bit is duller. What you see then will likely not matter since what you are looking at is going to be removed with the next pass.
Answers and ideas from the forum may be helpful, but after that first pass you will know more about what kind of results you're getting. You will be best suited to determine how to fine tune your approach to eliminate whatever bad side effects you might be getting. I know I've never done anything like that. Let us know what you did and how it went.
Paul

[MSRiverdog]

I'll have to make a base for the router to span the template I make (seems like the hardest part,) but the way he talks it'll be worth the effort. Thanks guys, gonna go talk to him about it.

[gMike]

Jim,

I might go with a power carving setup rather than a router for the main stock removal. This thing cuts quickly and is small enough to control. It isn't cheap but I find myself using mine more than I thought I would.

http://www.katools.com/shop/advanced_sea...=0&y=0

[MSRiverdog]

gMike said:

---

Jim,

I might go with a power carving setup rather than a router for the main stock removal. This thing cuts quickly and is small enough to control. It isn't cheap but I find myself using mine more than I thought I would.

http://www.katools.com/shop/advanced_sea...=0&y=0

---

Hi Mike, been a long time hope you're doing well. Thanks for coming in.

I've looked at that a few times over the years, pretty cool tool, unfortunately I would never use it enough to be cost effective. Thanks for the thought though.

My potential project really has to be A++, dead flat and no room for mistakes. He's pretty unhappy with the job he paid for didn't get, I understand what he's looking for. Cost doesn't seem to matter but I do want to be fair. It's not a hard project just a little out there, setup, template making and time consuming, and it will most likely be a one time shot, maybe, but then my fish measuring boards were supposed to be a one time shot to.

[mike4244]

I have only routed purple heart endgrain occasionally for ogee table tops.
Had no problems,found purple heart machines nicely.
mike