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Just bought yet another router. It's a Freud FT2000E plunge router, with a table. Using the bit height adjustment knob takes a long time.
If I could somehow attach a sprocket to the knob, and a chain to another sprocket/crank, it would be easy. Anyone done this? Pictures? Or other ideas?
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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I use a Freud FT2000 in my router table. I converted it to allow raising and lowering from the router table top using an allen wrench through a hole in the table top. If you wanted to you could use a small power screwdriver of some sort to turn the screw.
I found plans on how to do this on the web. It involves taking apart the lift mechanism, removing the springs and doing some minor 'machining'. Nothing that you can't do with common shop tools. I will see if I can find the plans for it. I believe that the plans were posted here on woodnet, but that must have been more than 5 years ago.
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Bubba, Thanks, I will also search for the plans.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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If you can't find them, let me know. I found the paper copy of the instructions, but not an electronic copy. I can scan and email them to you if you are interested in going this route.
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Thanks. PM sent
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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Location: SW Ohio (Bethel)
3/8-16 bolt, 3/8 square nut, 3/8 x 1/4 coupler, 1/4-20 hex nut, 1/4-20 x 2 socket head cap screw.
I put a brass trim washer under the 1/4-20 cap screw head to act as a bearing where it passes thru the router base.
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That looks familiar! Have you had any issues with your modifications? I thought that the changes went pretty smoothly.
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No problems at all. I had to replace the router (died) and I transferred the hardware.
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I have that router and put a Router Raizer on it. I took the plunge springs out when I installed the Router Raizer. With the springs out I had to use the plunge lock which was inconvenient and also tilted the bit a couple degrees. I ended up putting the springs back and and like it better. A shop made "router raizer" should work fine but there's a benefit to using a 3/8"-16 lead screw - one turn moves the bit 1/16", half turn 1/32" etc.
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kurt18947 said:
I have that router and put a Router Raizer on it. I took the plunge springs out when I installed the Router Raizer. With the springs out I had to use the plunge lock which was inconvenient and also tilted the bit a couple degrees. I ended up putting the springs back and and like it better. A shop made "router raizer" should work fine but there's a benefit to using a 3/8"-16 lead screw - one turn moves the bit 1/16", half turn 1/32" etc.
With this modification, you retain the 3/8-16 lead screw. Basically, the mod just moves the location that you use to rotate the lead screw from the 'top' to the 'bottom'.
