Stupid question #37
#11
Can I use the same blades on a RAS & a table saw?
Or is there specific blades for each?
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#12
"Yes, but..."


generally, ripping (i.e. as frequently done on a tablesaw) benefits from a different tooth count / tooth shape than crosscutting (normally the role of the RAS).

Also, some advise a negative rake tooth on the RAS to reduce the chance of the blade climbing and charging at you (mostly an issue if are making non-through cuts and the saw is very worn)

I use a general purpose Forrest WWII blade on my TS, but a dedicated crosscut blade on my miter saw. Do you rip on your RAS?
Good judgement is the product of experience.
Experience is the product of poor judgement.
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#13
I haven't ripped on it yet. I usually use my table saw & a Freud Avanti 24T framing / ripping blade for that.
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#14
PaulC said:


"Yes, but..."


generally, ripping (i.e. as frequently done on a tablesaw) benefits from a different tooth count / tooth shape than crosscutting (normally the role of the RAS).

Also, some advise a negative rake tooth on the RAS to reduce the chance of the blade climbing and charging at you (mostly an issue if are making non-through cuts and the saw is very worn)

I use a general purpose Forrest WWII blade on my TS, but a dedicated crosscut blade on my miter saw. Do you rip on your RAS?




+1. Ripping on an RAS isn't a very tidy task (my reason for avoiding it). So I just keep a Freud LU91 on it all the time, but any blade with a low or negative hook angle works really well (unless you intend to rip, a negative hook blade really sucks at that).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#15
OK, but how do I know if it's a negative rake tooth blade?
Will it be marked or something? I already have a chit ton of blades here is why I ask.
I never noticed any special markings on them.
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#16
Google it. There are some good images that explain it graphically.
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#17
Herb G said:


I haven't ripped on it yet. I usually use my table saw & a Freud Avanti 24T framing / ripping blade for that.



Keep it that way. Use the RAS for precision cross/angle cuts.
Ripping with the RAS can be a groin tightening experience.
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#18
Herb G said:


OK, but how do I know if it's a negative rake tooth blade?
Will it be marked or something? I already have a chit ton of blades here is why I ask.
I never noticed any special markings on them.



Lay a straightedge across the center of the blade.

Looking along the blade in the normal turning direction, if the tips of the tooth on each side of the blade touches the straightedge, then it is a positive rake blade.

If not, it is negative rake.

The rake angle is the angle between the front of the tooth and the straightedge. Technically, this is only exact for a zero-thickness straightedge, but I think that you can fine tune the angle measurement from there.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#19
I never knew about the rake business when I was really using my Delta RAS. Had no problems - at least what I considered a problem. Now that I know about rake, I still don't have problems.

The RAS blade can't go anywhere. If it wants to climb towards you - don't let it. Besides it saves you the effort of pulling it.

JMHO + YMWV
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#20
A - hook blade will still climb, if you let it. Just not as much as a + hook. Many use a Freud LU91 series blade.
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