Chainsaw Sharpening
#11
My small (16") chainsaw is getting to the point where it needs sharpening. I plan to purchase a replacement chain to have a spare but I still want to have the capability to sharpen them. While I don't expect to do sharpening out in the field, I don't mind manual operation whether file or stone as long as mechanism provides proper guides and is durable. I wouldn't mind having something power operated, but most that I've seen are far more costly than necessary for my purposes. I've used this chain for 3-4 years of occasional use and a replacement is only about $20. I may just use a sharpening service, but I would still like to know what you might recommend as a quality manual sharpening system.
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#12
For as infrequently as you need to have a chain sharpened it would be easiest to just let a shop do it and pay the $7 or so. But if you want to do it yourself all you need is a file of the correct diameter. They cost $3 or $4. Your saw owner's manual probably has a section in it about how to sharpen the chain. If not, Google is your friend. A step up from a file alone is to use a file guide. Lots of options there, too, but I think Oregon and Granberg make two of the better ones. After several filings you will remove so much of the tooth that you also will need to file down the rakers. For that you will need a flat file and depth gauge guide. A few more dollars. But at your current pace, you shouldn't need to do that for another 15 to 20 years if you buy a second chain.

John, who has to sharpen the 135 link chains for my chainsaw lumber mill a couple of times a day.

John
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#13
I have used a filing guide and have had them done by a shop. The guide I have I think is an Oregon from ~40 years ago. Lee Valley sells a similar one. Although its a bit tedious to use, it is just about impossible to screw it up for anyone of normal intelligence. Takes 2-3 stokes of a file to sharpen a tooth times the number of teeth, often a good chance to catch your wind, have a cuppa and enjoy the day before you get back to work.

Phil
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#14
Willyou said:


My small (16") chainsaw is getting to the point where it needs sharpening. I plan to purchase a replacement chain to have a spare but I still want to have the capability to sharpen them. While I don't expect to do sharpening out in the field, I don't mind manual operation whether file or stone as long as mechanism provides proper guides and is durable. I wouldn't mind having something power operated, but most that I've seen are far more costly than necessary for my purposes. I've used this chain for 3-4 years of occasional use and a replacement is only about $20. I may just use a sharpening service, but I would still like to know what you might recommend as a quality manual sharpening system.




Since you have a 16" bar, likely you either have 54DL or 56DL chain. I'm pretty sure you can buy a 2 pack, Oregon low profile set from Wallyworld for under $25. It's been awhile but I've purchased a couple sets there for my 16", 56DL.

As for hand sharpening with a file, I do pretty well on the right hand cutters but not so good on the left side. I assume because I'm left handed. Works well enough when out in the woods, fence rows or away from the house on my 16" & 20" saws.

In a 'different life', I was "that service" that sharpened chains with professional grinding equipment. I've sharpened hundreds of chains over the years.

For my own use, I bought the H-F model on sale with a coupon for about $27. It takes a little tweaking to get the set-up right to grind cutters equally, but for the money and occasional use it works great.

There are fancier, higher priced models out there, but I only sharpen mine 1-2x/yr and a few for some family & friends (at no charge).

You still have to manually file the rakers down when needed with a flat file and gauge but not that big a deal on a 16" chain.

I also have 14" electric model I use to trim shrubs and close to house work as well as on some remodel jobs cutting 4x4-8x8 beams. I only sharpen those chains with the grinder.

H-F Chainsaw Sharpener

FWIW, my $.02.
If you continue to cut corners, you'll end up going in circles!

It's my thumb so I'll hit it if I want to!
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#15
File and guide. Takes a little practice but once you get the hang of it you can keep your chain cutting better than new.

One of these for example
https://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-C...ning-Kits/

Now if the chain has been used that long without sharpening the cutters are going to need a bit of material removed to clean them up. The actual cutting edge is a thin layer of chrome on the outside of the cutter. If you can see a shiny rounded over area on the front of the cutter, looking down from above, then it's not sharp. There should be a razor sharp edge there, so you see no shiny edge when looking down in it.

If that's the case, let the shop do it with their grinder, then use the kit to KEEP it razor sharp. Depending on what you are cutting, it may need touching up after every couple of tanks of gas. Do it as soon as the cutting slows down, and it's only maybe 2 file strokes on each cutter. Leave it until it wont cut any more, and you really have to work with a file to get a good edge on it again.

There is also a gauge and flat file for taking off the depth gauges at the front of the cutter link. That needs to be slightly lower than the cutter to control the bite angle of cutter. As you file away the cutter, it gets lower, and if you wear it down to the same height as the depth gauge, it wont cut, no matter how sharp it is.

Go and buy a new chain anyway, good to have 2 on hand, especially if you hit a nail or rock 1/2 way though a job. Couple of minutes to swap the chain with the sharp spare and you are going again. Fix up the damaged chain later.

Look at the new chain's cutters with a magnifying glass. and note the angles etc. That's what you need to make your old chain look like again, and it will cut like new again.
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#16
Phil S. said:


I have used a filing guide and have had them done by a shop. The guide I have I think is an Oregon from ~40 years ago. Lee Valley sells a similar one. Although its a bit tedious to use, it is just about impossible to screw it up for anyone of normal intelligence. Takes 2-3 stokes of a file to sharpen a tooth times the number of teeth, often a good chance to catch your wind, have a cuppa and enjoy the day before you get back to work.

Phil




Agreed, but if it's so dull it's stopped cutting, might take a bit more filing to resurrect. But once it's sharp again, 2-3 strokes is all it needs to keep it that way.
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#17
With regular use---not cutting dirt/etc.---a chain will last the longest and cut the best with regular touchup hand filing. Professional tree trimmers spend 15 minutes during lunch(3-4 hours of use) with a hand file touching up the cutting teeth.

I've seen a chain saw chain last more than 120 hours when used that way(that is a month of use when used 5-7 hours a day, 5 days a week). And the hand file method was the only way it was sharpened.

The problem with machine sharpening is the sharpener has to start with the shortest tooth---which means the entire chain life is shortened.

The best part of hand file touch up is you do not need to get the angle perfect, just 2 strokes with the file to 'sweeten' the cutting edge.

A stroke consists of about 3/4 of the file and a 1/3 to 1/2 twist of the wrist(keeps the file from clogging).
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#18
Had mine over 30 years. When wood has been skidded and delivered, I have to touch up the chain every three or four tanks. I do use my opportunity, as it exists to "cut to dirt, not through dirt", as I was taught, but it's not always obvious where the dirt is.

Felling/limbing you can cut all day, but have the File and Joint and a vise available. This works. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.as...&cat=1,41131 Very handy. Don't know any woods workers who use an electric sharpener, but for a homeowner who can take a break on the porch, might be fine.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#19
I don't trust myself to file by eye., so I got a filing guide like this;

Oregon filing guide

Once set up for your chain, this thing is pretty simple and it only takes a few minutes to touch up a chain. It pays for itself about the 2nd time you use it. Just like chisels and plane irons, it's much easier to sharpen before the chain gets so dull that you can't cut with it anymore.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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#20
When I was using a chainsaw frequently for firewood and general clean up I would just use the appropriate file and an inexpensive guide I picked up somewhere. After a few months I would change out the chain and have a professional sharpening done just to even things out. This is one of the least expensive things you can do for saw maintenance. It takes some time to learn how to sharpen but the key is frequent touch ups and not cutting dirt or other abrasives.
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