Chainsaw Sharpening

[glzahn]

I have about 20 chains that I sharpen on a regular basis using this.




I have an old bar that I use as a sharpening station. Takes about a min. to sharpen an 80 tooth chain.

[Scott W]

glzahn said:

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I have about 20 chains that I sharpen on a regular basis using this.




I have an old bar that I use as a sharpening station. Takes about a min. to sharpen an 80 tooth chain.

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+1

[Willyou]

As some of you suggested, I have purchased a new Oregon chain (same as original) and installed it on the saw. The dull chain is in rather bad shape (hit the sandy soil a couple of times). So, I will send that to a local pro. I also purchased the Husqvarna 3/8" file sharpening system for touchups. Unfortunately, it appears that the the two files are just a hair larger than the required 1/4" dia. So, I think I will just buy the correct file and add it to the set. I rather like the way this set appears to operate. I like the idea of the Dremel attachments, but I read on Amazon that it will not work on low profile chains.
Thanks for the great advice

[Arlin Eastman]

glzahn said:

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I have about 20 chains that I sharpen on a regular basis using this.




I have an old bar that I use as a sharpening station. Takes about a min. to sharpen an 80 tooth chain.

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I use the exact same thing and it works wonderful!!! Just make sure you get the right size for the chain since there are 3 different ones.

Arlin

[axlotal]

For decades I sharpened my chains just holding them by hand on either a bench grinder ( for flat rip grind teeth) or using a metal cutting abrasive disk.

I have read a lot of stuff about how the angle's gotta be just so and - yadda yadda yadda - It's all crap. Really it's all a lot of hooey. It doesn't even matter when chain sawing lumber to resaw on the band saw using the chainsaw freehand ( which I do).

Then, one year using my Stihl 441 magnum I was sawing up a ton of wood that had been sitting outside for a few years and was covered in wind blown grit. I was sharpening my blades every hour. Literally every hour. That's a lot of sharpening.

So I spend the $$ and got a carbide tipped chain saw blade.
It's been two years of lots of use and I haven't sharpened it yet.
I figure sooner or later I'll have to get a little diamond wheel to sharpen it unless I can find a service that'll do it well.

[ScooterDawg]

Scott W said:

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[blockquote]glzahn said:

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I have about 20 chains that I sharpen on a regular basis using this.




I have an old bar that I use as a sharpening station. Takes about a min. to sharpen an 80 tooth chain.

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+1

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[/blockquote]

+2 Also use the rotozip and a stone to sharpen my bandsaw blades on my 12" & 17" bandsaws.

[fishhh4]

ScooterDawg said:

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[blockquote]Scott W said:

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[blockquote]glzahn said:

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I have about 20 chains that I sharpen on a regular basis using this.




I have an old bar that I use as a sharpening station. Takes about a min. to sharpen an 80 tooth chain.

---

+1

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[/blockquote]

+2 Also use the rotozip and a stone to sharpen my bandsaw blades on my 12" & 17" bandsaws.

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[/blockquote]

+3
I just put one in my die grinder. No guide. Cuts like new .

[ianab]

axlotal said:

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For decades I sharpened my chains just holding them by hand on either a bench grinder ( for flat rip grind teeth) or using a metal cutting abrasive disk.

I have read a lot of stuff about how the angle's gotta be just so and - yadda yadda yadda - It's all crap. Really it's all a lot of hooey. It doesn't even matter when chain sawing lumber to resaw on the band saw using the chainsaw freehand ( which I do).

Then, one year using my Stihl 441 magnum I was sawing up a ton of wood that had been sitting outside for a few years and was covered in wind blown grit. I was sharpening my blades every hour. Literally every hour. That's a lot of sharpening.

So I spend the $$ and got a carbide tipped chain saw blade.
It's been two years of lots of use and I haven't sharpened it yet.
I figure sooner or later I'll have to get a little diamond wheel to sharpen it unless I can find a service that'll do it well.

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Carbide chain doesn't cut as fast as regular chain, the material just can't be sharpened to the same razor sharp edge that good steel can.

BUT, if you are cutting in dirt or sand, it will hold at least a useful edge MUCH longer.

So I can see the point if you are cutting sand impregnated wood, or tree stumps etc.

Otherwise, regular chain and keeping it sharp will get more wood cut.

[Timberwolf]

I just use the correct size diamond burr held in my Dremel...no guide, just freehand, following the manufacturer's angle...You can also buy the kit from Oregon at H.D. and use your own Dremel...it comes with the guide and the burr.

[Timberwolf]

Quote:

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Carbide chain doesn't cut as fast as regular chain, the material just can't be sharpened to the same razor sharp edge that good steel can.

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And carbide is BRITTLE! Plus as you say, it can't be sharpened to as keen an edge as steel and will consume more available horsepower. But for use around dirt etc, it is the best..

You can sharpen it right on the bar using a diamond burr.