Posts: 131
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2009
Going to do a kitchen remodel some time next year. Some things I'll do myself, some I'll hire out, and a couple of things are still undecided. One of those being the cabinets. I've done cabinets before and am confident I can do them myself. But not being a pro, it would probably take me twice as long (if not more). That said if the cost savings was significant I'll deal with the extra time. I want plywood and solid wood. No mdf/particle board. Simple shaker design, soft close hinges and drawers. Probably cherry. So my question is for the pros, what do you normally charge? I'm assuming it's per linear foot? I know there are probably details you need for an accurate estimate but even a rough one will be helpful.
As the time gets closer I'll get actual estimates locally but just wanted a rough estimate to know what to expect.
Thanks
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
My suggestion:
go to the borg of choice and have them work up an estimate for the cabinetry.
Once you have a retail base line ( and a set of line drawings ) you can determine the suitability of doing them yourself.
While I do not hold to your aversion for melamine carcasses cabinetry using particle board over plywood anything you may want to have this discussion with the person who will be caring for and cleaning these cabinets. she likely will have reservations about the suitability of plywood you are not considering
Additionally, burying expensive plywood in carcases is not very cost efficient and cost seems to be a major driver in your criteria
JMO as a professional who has more than a few kitchens under my belt
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 30,914
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Athens, TN
Not a pro. But did this myself a few years ago.
Middle of the pack cabinets from Home depot (includes soft close slides, but not doors) uninstalled w/o counter tops were estimated at $21K.
I build exactly what I wanted for $6k including lots of interior customization. I have no lower cabinets that are just holes.
We did flat slab doors, which is what the wife wanted. These were MDF edges in hardwood and veneered in cherry. darned time intensive to build.
The cabinets are European format, no face frames. Carcass was veneered hardwood.
Logistics are difficult if you have limited workshop space. You need a place to stack cabinets until time to install. In the interest of time, I'd do all the carcasses and then gut the kitchen and install. you can then have the counter tops installed. Work on doors/drawers later.
It took me at least 3 months to get the basic carcasses done. Several more weeks to get the doors and drawers finished.
Total downtime for the kitchen, including removing two walls, adding 4 electrical circuits (includes electric oven to replace gas), re-drywalling and burying the gas line to the island was 9 months.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
Posts: 131
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2009
Thanks for the info mike. What is the approximately size of your kitchen?
Posts: 3,726
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: SW Pa.
A friend wanted me to build him a kitchen . It took him 3 years of asking to get it. Finally I conceded. I needed three tools to do the job ... He bought them .I kept them.
Lowe's price 21000 .. It ended up at 15000 for me. I charged him by the hour . I was more custom as well. 3/4 ply used in all carcass construction . Granite man said he had no problem with warranty on top,
I was rather proud of the valances ... design by RF
If it can't kill you it probably ain't no good. Better living through chemicals.
Posts: 131
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2009
I'll give Borg a try. I was actually starting a sketch up drawing of the cabinets but having someone else do it will be much easier and faster.
I was planning on using the cherry ply only for the outside faces and a prefinsished birch or maple for the inside. Which I believe is not much more than the melamine.
If the price was the same would you still prefer melamine over plywood?
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
Not so much that I would as the clients who have to live with cleaning them once in awhile. I have built both ply and melamine boxes and in 90% of the cases where finish ply was used the clients regretted it eventually, and I expect the last 10% did as well but would not admit the mistake.
They are afterall kitchen cabinets with a usable lifespan of around 15-20 yrs due to remodeling more than any other factor second is water damage and frankly melamine and plywood are a toss up as for durability when soaked for any length of time....
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 30,914
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Athens, TN
cad said:
Thanks for the info mike. What is the approximately size of your kitchen?
Larger than most track homes, less than a high end custom home.
It took 2 1/2 slabs of granite to cover.
14 lowers, 5 uppers (the island was a lot of the lowers), a tall pantry, a tall oven/micro cabinet and a fridge surround between.
I'd estimate at least half the price was in drawer slides, hardware and organizers. that stuff really adds up, which is why you mostly see big holes for lower cabinets. I have stacks of drawers most places.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
Posts: 30,914
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Athens, TN
cad said:
I was planning on using the cherry ply only for the outside faces and a prefinsished birch or maple for the inside. Which I believe is not much more than the melamine.
I fell in love with some cabinets that were walnut external faces with maple interiors. Of course, if you area big enough client, you can get the mill to make it that way.
What I did is buy maple plywood and veneer the few visible panels in paper backed cherry veneer. You get the warm tones you like without the interiors looking dark.
Unless you are doing true euro-cabinets where you do a glueless build, I'd skip the pre-finished ply. Its fairly easy to apply a finish to the interiors.
I'd skip the melamine or MDF for the bulk just because it holds fasteners poorly. I'd counter that if you build the carcasses using Confirmat screws, it wouldn't matter. I like confirmat screws in man-made sheet goods. They work great. Of course, if you go this route, you would be adding secondarily attached end caps of the hardwood of your choice. I don't consider this a "high end" build, but it will be quite serviceable. As I said before, I used MDF for the doors, so I have no aversion to man-made materials.
You have not yet said what your skill set, tool set and shop space are. That goes a lot to whether this is a do-able project.
You should also read several books on cabinet making.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
Posts: 2,402
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Batesville, Indiana
My bids usually come out at materials times three or four and I get most of the jobs I bid.
If the cabinets use a very expensive material like the eucalyptus, bamboo or makore kitchens I've done, then they might come out closer to materials times one or two because the materials are so much higher.
You have to keep in mind that you are doing semi-custom / custom level cabinets so don't compare the typical cheapy cabinets at the borg.
