Which Live Center?
#21
For spindle work, I like the Sorby Steb center style. I got mine at Woodcraft in their Woodriver line in both drive center and live center types and a couple of sizes. WC does not seem to have the live center version on their website at the moment.

I have a couple of the Oneway live centers and have been very happy with them. A couple of places make accessories for the Oneway. I got most of my accessories from Best Wood Tools.
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#22
Like others, I got one of the first style with my lathe & it served me well for many years. Got the woodriver 60 degree cone center because it supposedly didn't penetrate the wood as far, but I've not found this to be the case. I honestly don't care which I use now, but usually use the 60 degree center because it doesn't fit in the storage drawer & the other one is just enough smaller diameter to fit.
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#23
Thanks for all the great comments. I think I will try one of the 60 degree cones. As some of you pointed out, it appears possible to work closer to center when needed. My usual procedure (after truing up the blank) is to cut a dovetail recess into the tail end and then flip the work piece, mount it onto my dovetail chuck, and finish the piece from there. I'll see if the 60 degree cone will make cutting the recess any easier. I'll keep the original cup style center until it gets so bad that it needs replacing. I do turning work in spurts. So, it may last another 10 years.
Thanks again.
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#24
You did notice that the Nova is a 60 degree nose taper, so the assertion that you can get closer is moot? And that one of the removable points is the 60 degree required for the pen mandrels?

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/148539/...utm_term=148539
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#25
Arlin Eastman said:


....

If I was to get another one it would be this one

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTTS2.html

Arlin




If you have a true Sorby Streb and a PennState clone look carefully at the teeth, I have both and I think the Sorby teeth "bite" better.
Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that's more accident then design.
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#26
Willyou said:


I'll see if the 60 degree cone will make cutting the recess any easier. Thanks again.




It may help but I find the center itself gets in the way of the tool if the recess is for 50mm or less.
The Nova MM linked to like this... http://www.tools-plus.com/nova-lathes-5015.html helps quite a bit. The extended point helps as does making a dovetail tool from an old chisel or screwdriver. Mine is presented 45* to the work and pushed in, then pulled. You are only cutting a wee bit of wood.

With the Nova it is also simple using the "threaded insert" to swap from the live center to a friction drive as shown here. The glass vase is just what was handy for the pic.
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#27
I can't recommend which one for you to buy, but jeez they have gotten expensive !!
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#28
Herb G said:


I can't recommend which one for you to buy, but jeez they have gotten expensive !!




I bought a Oneway live center about 5 years ago for around $120, same price as now.

PM 3520b's have been $3999 for almost that long, too.
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#29
hairy said:



I bought a Oneway live center about 5 years ago for around $120, same price as now.





robust just introduced their version of the Oneway/Powermatic, list is $119
Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that's more accident then design.
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#30
NCPaladin,
I made a similar tool several years ago from and old file:



It's shape is a little different but works the same way. I've read opposing opinions regarding the use of files for this purpose but I've had no problems with doing it. With this I can get pretty close to the cup center. I'm hoping I can get closer with the cone center.

Very inventive use of a baseball. Good Idea. Turning that glass vase must have taken a delicate touch to say nothing of very sharp tools.
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