Formica installation on my table saw side tables
#11
Hi all,

I applied Formica to the side tables that I built for my Craftsman cabinet saw a couple of weeks ago.

The outside temperature was right at the minimum temperature called out on the can, but I "assumed' that the garage was warm enough for it to adhere.

Well, I was wrong. I've got a couple of places where it didn't stick.

It's not catastrophic, but being the card carrying OCD member that I am, it will bother me.

What are my options? Peel it up and start over? My dad used to do a lot of Formica installs and he was a member of externally applied heat to reactivate the glue. I've got a heat gun so that's viable.

Thoughts?
chris
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#12
if it was solvent based contact cement new cement will activate the old also. Just add more.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#13
I've only had it happen once with the 3M spray adhesive. I pry'd up the loose end, sprayed some more, problem solved.
Mark

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#14
Splinter Puller said:


if it was solvent based contact cement new cement will activate the old also. Just add more.




Well, that would mean prying it up as of course the loose spot is in the middle.

Just wanting to make certain this was the proper path....
chris
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#15
I think I'd first try a clothes iron----start with a low to medium setting and it it doesn't work---raise the setting---keep it moving or it will burn the surface.

Otherwise, you could try and drill a small hole and use a syringe type thingie to inject more contact cement and weigh down the spot.
Dave
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#16
daveferg said:


I think I'd first try a clothes iron----start with a low to medium setting and it it doesn't work---raise the setting---keep it moving or it will burn the surface.

Otherwise, you could try and drill a small hole and use a syringe type thingie to inject more contact cement and weigh down the spot.




I like the iron idea.

Will give that a whirl.

Thanks Dave,
chris
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#17
+1 on the clothes iron. It will almost surely work. It even works on old contact cement usually.

I put a piece of brown paper over the location it protect the work as well as protecting the iron from contamination.

I have a old iron just for this purpose.

Just keep moving the iron around not letting it linger in one spot and take your time to get the surface hot enough you can't put your hand on it for more than a moment but not so hot as to scorch the surface.

Then, use a wood block to keep bearing down on the surface as it cools. leave the paper in place and rub the block around with as much pressure as you think you need.
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#18
Did you allow the cement to dry on both the laminate and the table sides?You may be able to re-adhere the laminate with a heat gun and laminate roller.Set the heat to high,move the heat gun from the center to an end while pressing with the roller.
Worse thing is to remove the strip,coat the table edge twice and the laminate once.Let both dry completely.Usually about 30 minutes til dry.Then apply the laminate.

mike
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#19
mike4244 said:


Did you allow the cement to dry on both the laminate and the table sides?You may be able to re-adhere the laminate with a heat gun and laminate roller.Set the heat to high,move the heat gun from the center to an end while pressing with the roller.
Worse thing is to remove the strip,coat the table edge twice and the laminate once.Let both dry completely.Usually about 30 minutes til dry.Then apply the laminate.

mike




Yea, the cement was dry.

I'm gonna give the iron thing a shot.

Thanks
chris
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#20
It is possible that is an air bubble there and that is why it popped. You may want to take a very tiny drill bit or even a needle and drill a hole in there to let the air out before you try resetting with heat.
John T.
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