Spray lacquer
#9
  Re: (...)
I am trying some spray lacquer for the first time, and I love the results, mostly. I have a couple questions for those of you who have experience with this finish (It's Minwax gloss spray lacquer.). It's on a walnut bowl, too.

1. How finely should I sand before applying the lacquer? I sanded to 400, and wondered if 220 would have allowed the finish to "grip" to the surface better.

2. Can I buff it? I have the Beall system. I've melted Poly by buffing before, and don't want to make that mistake here.

3. I have some NuFinish car wax that added a high gloss to wipe on poly before. Is it ok to use on lacquer? I also have Renaissance Wax I could use.

Sorry for the detailed post. I've tried googling the issue, and I wanted some input from some of you guys too. :-)
I'm slow, but I do poor work.
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#10
  Re: Spray lacquer by jerickson (I am trying some spr...)
You can buff, but let it fully dry first. Like a week.

Can't address your other questions.
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#11
  Re: Spray lacquer by jerickson (I am trying some spr...)
Buff it slow, 1000 rpm or lower
If it don't hold soup, it's ART!!

Dry Creek Woodturning

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#12
  Re: Spray lacquer by jerickson (I am trying some spr...)
jerickson said:


I am trying some spray lacquer for the first time, and I love the results, mostly. I have a couple questions for those of you who have experience with this finish (It's Minwax gloss spray lacquer.). It's on a walnut bowl, too.

1. How finely should I sand before applying the lacquer? I sanded to 400, and wondered if 220 would have allowed the finish to "grip" to the surface better.

2. Can I buff it? I have the Beall system. I've melted Poly by buffing before, and don't want to make that mistake here.

3. I have some NuFinish car wax that added a high gloss to wipe on poly before. Is it ok to use on lacquer? I also have Renaissance Wax I could use.

Sorry for the detailed post. I've tried googling the issue, and I wanted some input from some of you guys too. :-)




I have not used Minwax spray but Deft and it really works wonderfully.

I always sand to 800 to 1000. Let it dry for 1 hour and spray again up to 4 coats and then let dry for 8 to 10 hours.

Then I use the Beal buffing at 500rpm and lightly buff it with Diamond unless it has runs or bugs in it and then I just sand it with 320 up to 1000 again. Then again I buff with Diamond and check it often to make sure everything is right in each area before using carnauba wax. When that is done I use the Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax.

Biggest thing about buffing it is not to get hot.

Arlin
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

Hi, I'm Arlin's proud wife! His brain trma & meds-give memory probs and has pain from injuries, but all is well materially & financially.  
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#13
  Re: Spray lacquer by jerickson (I am trying some spr...)
When it comes to lacquer or any other finish I've used I've never had a finish "let go" because of lack of tooth. I'm not sure where that legend came from but it does run deep. A lot of my work gets sanded all the way out to 1200, 400 is the minimum and never had a problem with lacquer, varnish or poly.

Lacquer is ideal for buffing when cured, not dry but cured. But walnut is NOT the ideal wood for the 3 step process. If you use the first 2 compounds it will suck into the pores and the only way to get it out is by stripping it back down.
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#14
  Re: Re: Spray lacquer by Angus (When it comes to lac...)
Thank you for the very helpful replies, everyone!
I'm slow, but I do poor work.
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#15
  Re: Re: Spray lacquer by Angus (When it comes to lac...)
Angus said:


But walnut is NOT the ideal wood for the 3 step process. If you use the first 2 compounds it will suck into the pores and the only way to get it out is by stripping it back down.




Thanks, Angus. I made that mistake once with a walnut piece and white diamond. For a minute I didn't think I'd be able to save it! So sounds like a low speed buffing with tripoli and some type of wax or polish (other than white diamond) would be a good way to go.
I'm slow, but I do poor work.
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#16
  Re: Re: Spray lacquer by Angus (When it comes to lac...)
Angus said:


But walnut is NOT the ideal wood for the 3 step process. If you use the first 2 compounds it will suck into the pores and the only way to get it out is by stripping it back down.




I've wet sanded and/or used pore filler with walnut, and that really does seal up the pores, making it a good candidate for buffing, even with the white diamond abrasive.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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