New user. Current project.

[JokerRN]

Howdy, all. I have been lurking here for quite some time and figured it's time I jumped in on the conversation. Full disclosure...I am in the process of building up my workshop and anticipate needing a ton of help in the future...

In the meantime, thought I'd share my current project and ask a couple of questions.

I am building a built-in storage bench/window seat for some friends. I have most of the bench built and installed (will add some pics next time I go over) and am working on the top. In truth, I am a relative beginner and am figuring some things out as I go. I am working under the assumption that 95% of you would have advised against my methods so far, but it is what it is at this point. Here is where I am right now:

I will take the bench top over in 2 pieces. Here they are put together just to make sure everthing is square and to start cutting the molding for the front:

The top is baltic birch plywood that I cut into equal panels and joined with a 1/4" strip of hardwood between. I thought the hardwood would make the joint a little easier to line up/clean up and maybe add a decorative touch:


I drilled some 1/2" holes (with my new drill press. Yay!) at each joint and inserted some 1/2" dowels. These provide nothing structurally. I really only did it so that I could use them to clamp the joints together during gluing. After the joints are glued, I flush cut them and figure they'll add a little decorative element:


So, first question: A couple of the joints didn't get lined up just right with the hardwood and I am struggling with how to level them. The top will be stained and poly'd, so I need to get it as flat as possible. My fear in just sanding is that I will go through the top veneer of the plywood.


Any suggestions on a way to patch/fill the low spots at the joints? Wood filler? Route a channel at each joint and do an inlay? Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Halfathumb]

Spoken like a true Texan "Howdy". Welcome aboard and looking forward to hearing your in put as well. Just ask away.

[MsNomer]

First, welcome. I've never seen that dowel clamping before. I think it's a nifty idea--the kind that often comes from a mind not yet dulled by "the way it's supposed to be."

If the two sheets of ply are level with each other and it's just that the hardwood is low, I vote for an inlay of the same wood you used for the dowels (walnut?).

[Halfathumb]

Now to your question. It depends how the cabinet below the top is constructed. If that's done square & level the joints should come together fairly well. You can consider staining the HW so it contrasts with the ply and let it stand slightly higher for decorative purposes. Round the edges, etc. Artistic freedom you might call it. More pics please.

[jteneyck]

Welcome. You are right, you can't sand the BB plywood much or you will cut through the top layer. I think MsNomer has it right. Route a groove into the hardwood strip and glue in another piece that sits proud of the plywood, then hand plane it really close to flush. Then sand.

John

[JokerRN]

Thanks, Guys. Appreciate the welcome and advice.

The joint that is shown in the last pic is already glued. The cabinet itself is nice and flat and level. I just need to patch a few low spots in the hardwood strips.

Oh, and jt, you lost me at "hand plane."

[Steve N]

For no more width than you would be knocking down you will do fine with a block plane. An inexpensive one can be made to work well enough, like this one.



However if you are going to be doing much of this work, you might consider biting the bullet and getting one that will last through your woodworking journey, and be a dream to use while doing so. Like one of these

PS I'd like to go on record as saying that is a brilliant way to clamp those panels, using the dowels. However I think the joinery you chose is a lot more work than you needed to do. Using a Kreg jig you could have joined them together easier, and if the plywood was baltic birch ply the thicknesses would have been the same, so affixing them from underneath would have given you a dead flat panel, locked tightly together. With that panel, as with yours you will need to make sure those joints are well supported from underneath to keep them from stressing. BTW from the edge grain pics of your ply, it may be birch plywood, but it isn't baltic birch, see pic below of BB edge grains, on 3/4" you will usually see 13 plies, plus a cryllic stamp on the edge somewhere. Pics and info about baltic birch plywood


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZ6Gd72vn4w



Welcome to posting. Please don't take anything I've said here as a knock, just steering you toward different ideas. Good luck going forward.

[Joel H.]

Welcome aboard, enjoy the ride.

Lots of good advise given on your question, so I'll add a little to Steve N's. Those joints may look nice, but there's not much strength in them. The edge of plywood doesn't make a good glueing medium. That is they won't stand much stress - so be very careful when you transport them to your friends. If the underside of the top won't be seen, I'd add a block under each joint the same length as your top width (or a little less) and 4" to 6" wide with glue and screws.

Also, to keep the plywood pieces and the hardwood strip in the same plane (level and flat), clamp a block top & bottom to each joint when you glueup (put wax paper between the blocks and the plywood).

Joel

[tomsteve]

welcome,joker.theres a lot of great knowledge here and willing to share it.

id highly suggest getting a plane iffen ya inlay a strip. if ya decide to sand, please do it by hand ,wrap the sandpaper around a block of wood, and check progress often.

[JokerRN]

Thanks, guys. Appreciate the advice again.

I have quite a bit of experience with the Kreg jig and actually used it for similar joints on the cabinet part of this build. I find that the far side of the joint tends to get pushed just a little proud when I put the screws in and I wanted to try and avoid that on the finished top of the bench. May have actually ended up worse off...

Either way, the top in the pics is fully supported along it's length and depth, so the joint shouldn't be stressed too terribly.

I think somewhere I just started saying Baltic Birch about all Birch plywood. Guess I didn't realize there was a difference. Thanks for the lesson.

This is why I wanted to jump in here. You guys are awesome. Can't wait to get to my question about achieving a smooth finish...