Problems getting flat 3/4" out of 4/4 stock
#11
Building kitchen cabinets and I'm having real problems getting alot my 4 quarter stock milled flat to 3/4". This is mostly for the uppers which require longer stiles. 45" Not so much for the lowers since the stiles are much shorter and all the rails aren't very long either.

My problem is by the time I flatten the stock on the jointer I'm under 3/4". Not by much but still under. To be exact most of the stock is 23/32. I mill it till I can put it on my assembly table (which is a very flat torsion box) till I see no light. Am I expecting too much for that long of stock. I wouldn't think so but I'm not sure. I initially thought it was because I bought "shorts" lumber. But I went and paid for the regular stock and still getting the same problem. It's S3S stock. And no I can't get rough sawn. Well at least I haven't seen any locally. Thanks
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#12
A couple of questions I have:

How thick is the stock when you start, a full 1"?

Does it have to be exactly 3/4" thick? What type of profile and how are you joining the rails and stiles together?

Are you getting to select the S3S stock, or do they load/pick it for you?
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#13
That's why I'm never going to build doors or drawer fronts again. Just nearly impossible to get decent stock locally.
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#14
The problem is its 23/32.
I never have my suppliers do the millwork for me. I only use 15/16.
Most of what i do is make cabinet doors and i pride myself on providing a flat product.

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#15
As long as the stock was not warped, long narrow pieces will usually straightened when they are attached to the case.
They told me anybody could do it, but I showed them.
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#16
Jeremy s said:


The problem is its 23/32.




^^^^^This.

You can mail order true 4/4 rough stock and have it shipped, buy size, i.e. 500 bd/ft or more, that's what I'd do.
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#17
Did you pre-cut a few inches over your final dimension before jointing? I like to sight down the wood with it aimed at a light source to see if it's straight. When trying to get as thick a piece as possible I'll face joint it down to about 80% on the jointer and then go to the planer.
RD
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#18
You say you flattening with your jointer ?
A jointer is to surface one side and then use a planner to flatten and make one parallel to yhe other

You can't really flatten both sides with a jointer. One won't be parallel to the other.

Just a thought
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#19
Richard D. said:


Did you pre-cut a few inches over your final dimension before jointing? I like to sight down the wood with it aimed at a light source to see if it's straight. When trying to get as thick a piece as possible I'll face joint it down to about 80% on the jointer and then go to the planer.




I do the same with bent boards. Sight down them and cross shut to rough lengths to maximize thickness.

I will also drive a little farther to get lumber that is milled and dried a lot flatter than what I can get locally
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#20
dlgWoodWork said:


A couple of questions I have:

How thick is the stock when you start, a full 1"?

Does it have to be exactly 3/4" thick? What type of profile and how are you joining the rails and stiles together?

Are you getting to select the S3S stock, or do they load/pick it for you?





That's actually a large part of the problem. The stock is just under 7/8" thick. I'd say between 1/32-1/16 under. It seemed thin when I bought it but I assumed, foolishly it seems, that since it was s3s it would be near flat and only require minimal flattening.

As far as being exactly 3/4" I'll leave that up to the more experienced guys to answer. 3/4" is what I've always heard face frames to be. Is there significant harm in making them 1/32 under. Assuming I make the doors and drawer fronts the same thickness.

I can choose the stock but they're all the same thickness.



Quote:


Did you pre-cut a few inches over your final dimension before jointing? I like to sight down the wood with it aimed at a light source to see if it's straight. When trying to get as thick a piece as possible I'll face joint it down to about 80% on the jointer and then go to the planer.





Richard, I do just that. Cut them 1/2" or so longer than final dimension and rip them 1/8" wider. Maybe I need to check out more lumber yards. I usually go to Penn Forest in carson or Austin hardwoods in Santa Ana. Where do you get your stock? I remember you mention you go Anderson and Bonhoff. Do you know if they mill their stock thicker than 7/8"?


Quote:


You say you flattening with your jointer ?
A jointer is to surface one side and then use a planner to flatten and make one parallel to yhe other

You can't really flatten both sides with a jointer. One won't be parallel to the other.




No I'm using a planer after the jointer. But when after I use the jointer I measure the thinnest part (the ends) and many / most are 23/32".
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