Blanket Chest Question
#11
I would like to add some support as shown in the picture below to keep my Blanket Chest top flat. I know that I will have to allow for Expansion and Contraction since the top is about 18 inches wide.

How do you mount this but still allow for movement? I'm assuming that I would have to cut a slot on the back side.

Any advice would be appreciated.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/sroxberg1/embed/slideshow/"></iframe>
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#12
I must not know how to imbed a picture, any help would be appreciated.
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#13
you have to use a third party uploader like photobucket you cannot upload from cloud based files on your computer

As for the supports sliding dovetails are the cleanest solution; slotted holes and pan head screws are acceptable and widely used

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#14


Is this the picture?
USN (Corpsman) 1968-1972
USAF Retired Aug 31, 1994
Santa Rosa County, Fl Retired Jun 1, 2012
Now just a hobbiest enjoying woodworking!
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#15
sroxberg said:


I must not know how to imbed a picture, any help would be appreciated.




Use the "Direct Link" option from Photobucket, not the embedded script.

Then when you post Select the "Image" function from the UBB Code area, and past that link into your post.

So
http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag29...wzsap0.jpg

Becomes

Code:
Code:
[image]http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag298/sroxberg1/Blanket%20Chest%20Top_zpsghwzsap0.jpg[/image]



Which shows

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#16
JGrout said:


slotted holes and pan head screws are acceptable and widely used

Joe





Always worked for me. Even just over drilling the screw hole a bit. I wouldn't put more than a couple of screws into the support, just having it there will help keep the boards still, affixing it too much will start to make the problem you are trying to avoid.

I use the following chart for this. If you used a #6 screw the shank hole is commonly 9/64ths. If you over drill the hole to 7/32nds the hole will allow for enough movement, and the head of the #6 is usually 9/32 so the head won't get swallowed up. From the bottom side of the batten you can then wallow out the bottom even more. The top contact holds it tight with a bit of wiggle room, and the bottom allows for as much more as you want to add. I've never had a problem with this cracking.





Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#17
I wonder if you really need them.
I have built a couple of these chest closer to 24 inches and they stayed flat.

Alaskan's for Global Warming
Eagle River AK
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#18
Thanks for the help, I think that I'll use the Pan Head screws.
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#19
You can place a couple of screws securely near the middle of the piece, then slot the ones at each end to allow for some movement.

OR, I usually do mine with T&G or just square planks, held together securely by the cleat. It's a different (more rustic?) look as the top has the visible joins. But it's simple and works fine.
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#20
Thanks for the chart Steve. Not well known information.
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