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I am building a big farm table with 2 inch thick top and 5 inch turned legs
How do you guys strengthen the base corners. On smaller tables I have cut a 3/4 dado in the aprons and made and attached home made corner blocks with screws.
Also what is your favorite way to attach a top to the base. On smaller tables I have made wooden clips and again cut a 1/4 groove for these
This table is big and heavy.
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An apron mortised in to the legs is the best way.
Depending on length, you may need cross support in middle.
I would make the aprons thicker than normal.
A top this thick is more prone to sagging.
Attaching top many ways best to allow for movement like clips.
Glue blocks, 8 clips, cleats, etc.
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rwe2156 said:
An apron mortised in to the legs is the best way.
Depending on length, you may need cross support in middle.
I would make the aprons thicker than normal.
A top this thick is more prone to sagging.
Attaching top many ways best to allow for movement like clips.
Glue blocks, 8 clips, cleats, etc.
In addition to the mortised in skirts I would also add the corner supports already shown if it is a big table, as in heavy. Cross supports also make sense unless you are also using hardware for extension to add leafs/leaves. If that is the case then they might be used, but only after determining their placement will not interrupt the movement of the table, or addition of the leaf.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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I'm sorry, but why would a two inch thick table top sag?
I think you could dispense with the aprons entirely, except that it would add an element of difficulty to fastening the legs...
Good judgement is the product of experience.
Experience is the product of poor judgement.
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I just completed a similar style of table for one of my neighbors. She provided me with 4 - 9'x12"x2" walnut planks and told me to make a table.
As you noted, a table top this thick and long is pretty heavy so it requires a pretty solid base. I made the aprons with 2 laminated 3/4" thick pieces of poplar (total thickness was 1-1/2 inches). Then I placed the legs in each corner along with an angled cross piece (see photo). I drilled holes through the apron into the base of each leg then installed threaded brass inserts so that the leg would be bolted on three sides.
http://s684.photobucket.com/user/dg152/m...4.jpg.htmlhttp://s684.photobucket.com/user/dg152/m...1.jpg.htmlHere's a shot of the completed leg/apron assembly:
http://s684.photobucket.com/user/dg152/m...2.jpg.htmlHere are some shots of the completed table. I attached the walnut top to the poplar apron using pocket hole screws.
http://s684.photobucket.com/user/dg152/m...5.jpg.htmlhttp://s684.photobucket.com/user/dg152/m...5.jpg.htmlLet me know if you have any questions. Always happy to share out of the abundance of my ignorance!
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You need these for your table legs.
Just kidding of course but it holds up the end of my daughters granite island.
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I started a table with 5" legs and a 6/4 top similar to yours this summer. It's sitting now but the top is pretty much done awaiting the apron. I'm planning on M/T joinery for the apron, corner blocks, and metal clips dadoed in the apron and attached with screws to the top. My top weighs over 100 lbs so I don't really see it going anywhere after the clips. If I get ambitious, I'll use wood "buttons" mortised into the aprons. I think a deep and thick M/T is the most important part of the table integrity. I plan on using at least 5/4 if not 6/4" aprons for an extra thick tenon.
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First thing I thought, reading this thread.
Expense, seasonal movement and weight all argue against this.
It would be easy enough to rip the outermost boards and "roll" them 90 degrees for a solid grain match and greater strength.
Table tops longer than 6 feet need a proper apron, or an additional floor support in the middle to prevent deflection under load.
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Sounds like a challenging project but the results can be very rewarding. That table will outlast you, so I think you are smart for seeking out advice on its construction.
I made a similar table for my oldest daughter, although it was slightly smaller. The top was about 1.5 inches thick and the legs were about 4 inch turned legs.. I joined the aprons to the legs with M/ T joints and braced the corners with hanger screws and bolts. Also added some additional cross braces (dados in the aprons), and this made it very solid. Should work well for a table like the one you are building.
Took a few pictures, so hopefully they might be useful to you:
http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/mcgban...amp;page=1Good luck with your table project!
