sagging gutter
#11
I have seamless gutters and one long section sags; it wasn't installed correctly.
How do I assure the slope is constant when I try to repair it? In other words how do I fix it?

Rick
Any government that robs Peter to pay Paul, can always count on the support of Paul!
MAGA!!
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#12
The slope doesn't need to be constant, just be high enough to drain. I think I'd start by checking that the brackets to each side of the sag are pitched correctly. If they are pitched I'd figure out why the spot sagged. Did the facia get damaged?
Matt

If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.
-Jack Handy

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#13
scpapa said:



How do I assure the slope is constant when I try to repair it? In other words how do I fix it?

Rick





Eyeball it
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


Nah...I like you, young feller...You remind me of my son... Timberwolf 03/27/12

Here's a fact: Benghazi is a Pub Legend... CharlieD 04/19/15

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#14
If it was leaf guard call them up and have them fix it. They sure charge enough... They quoted me $53 a linear ear foot. I could have copper for less than that...
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#15
You can add ferrules and lag bolts after the installation. You first have to take out the sag. But installation is just a matter of drilling one hole in the gutter and sliding the lag bolt through the hole and through the ferrule and tightening it.

Or this hardware

See: http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Ste...UTR_16.jpg
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#16
I personally don't worry about the slope much. If it slopes the wrong way, then a lot of water will sit in it, but even if it has zero slope, water will drain. It just won't drain dry as fast, and if it has a sag in the middle, some water will sit there. And maybe breed mosquitos. But like going over a weir, once it's deep enough to get over the high spot between the water and the hole, it'll drain.

I would take the sag out because it looks terrible, and because I know it's there, though.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#17
Robert Adams said:


If it was leaf guard call them up and have them fix it. They sure charge enough... They quoted me $53 a linear ear foot. I could have copper for less than that...




That is right. Quoted me a price that was only $200 less than I paid for the last roof which was only about 18 months ago
1st class birdhouse builder/scrapwood mfg.
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#18
messmaker said:


[blockquote]Robert Adams said:


If it was leaf guard call them up and have them fix it. They sure charge enough... They quoted me $53 a linear ear foot. I could have copper for less than that...




That is right. Quoted me a price that was only $200 less than I paid for the last roof which was only about 18 months ago


[/blockquote]



Ours was a quote for about half the house cause he didn't want to run it everywhere and it was still nearly the price of a roof.
And the salesman was worse than any used car dealer salesman I have ever seen. Nice guy but they use every old trick and story in the book and it's just gutters...

My favorite line from the Simpsons was the one where he was talking to the security salesman at the door. (Salesman)"You can't put a price on your family's safety can you" (homer) "wouldn't have thought so myself but here we are"
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#19
scpapa said:

In other words how do I fix it?




Is the low point of the sagging section at a location where you could cut in a drop outlet and install a downspout? That run of gutter may have been too long in the first place for just one downspout.
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#20
Cooler said:


You can add ferrules and lag bolts after the installation. You first have to take out the sag. But installation is just a matter of drilling one hole in the gutter and sliding the lag bolt through the hole and through the ferrule and tightening it.

Or this hardware

See: http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Ste...UTR_16.jpg





I do believe that is a pic of how not to use that hardware! The clip on the rear should be snapped on the gutter and the screw goes thru the gutter material, otherwise the back of the gutter will sag.

I have used coarse DW Gal. screws on the back of the gutter, with spikes and ferrules, as the spikes can walk out in time.

Al
I turn, therefore I am!
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