Moving WW equipment
#21
Walk it up on blocking. is worth looking into. Don't let the 500 lb scare you. as you won't ever be lifting all of it. If it is narrow and you are concerned with tipping bolt something to the bottom to create a wider footprint
Phydeaux said "Loving your enemy and doing good for those that hurt you does not preclude killing them if they make that necessary."


Phil Thien

women have trouble understanding Trump's MAGA theme because they had so little involvement in making America great the first time around.

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#22
If you need to come up with a ramp, HF has a set of aluminum ramps that are supposedly good for 1000# and really aren't that bad. I bought a set for LOML's golf cart (900 #) and they work well, are relatively cheap ($100), easily stored and generally useful.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#23
As one other has suggested, a folding engine hoist works well. The upside is that the hoist makes it a one person operation. The downside is that you need a smooth surface to roll the hoist on. I've borrowed my neighbor's engine hoist a number of times to load/unload heavy equipment.
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#24
I recently moved my entire shop on my own. I have a 4x8' trailer with the bed being 20" off the ground. I tipped most of my stationary tools on their sides, onto a packing blanket and slid them into place. Once in place, I tipped them back onto their bases. I backed the trailer to the shop door and reversed the process. I then made sure everything was back in-line and square and did my yearly PM on all the tools.
Gary

Living under the radar, heading for "off the grid."

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#25
You have received a number of workable solutions to move your tool onto your trailer. I would suggest you remove the motor before hand. Getting that 60-70 pounds off before hand will lighten the load, but more importantly, will relieve the stress on the structure supporting the motor during transport. That motor weight, bouncing up and down as the trailer travels down a bumpy road can't be good.
A friend found a good deal on a Unisaw, only to pay twice the price to fix the broken mount after he got it home.
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#26
solution.

trust me. it's been the best purchase of my tool pimp career. I've moved 12" jet jointer planers solo, a powermatic 15HH, several sawstops, a 6"Jet belt sander, a 2HP shaper, several shopfox tablesaws, piles of generators, etc.

If it broke tomorrow, i'd order another one. did i mention, i have done all those tools solo?
My Day Job
well, bye.
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#27
Don't know what's in your area, but Sunbelt rents the drop deck trailers here. I bought an old one and the heaviest thing I've moved on it was a 3,500 lb metal lathe. Just roll stuff on and off with pipes.

Rich
"Have a very small amount of things to work with." Henri Cartier-Bresson
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#28
Engine hoist and a come-a -long or small chainfall.The come-a-long will pull your engine hoist to the trailer,then can be used if needed to level the load.Some machinery may be difficult to hook up level,the come- a long is hooked up to the boom and pulls up on the low side.I would buy the come-a long and rent the engine hoist unless I thought I could use it often enough to make the purchase worthy.
mike
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#29
RJT123 said:


What have y'all done for your moves?




This worked for me for a 20" planer: HF 1 ton chain hoist

It worked great, and the (sale) price was reasonable...


Cliff
Cliff
ex-TX, now Maine!
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#30
closed for business said:


solution.

trust me. it's been the best purchase of my tool pimp career. I've moved 12" jet jointer planers solo, a powermatic 15HH, several sawstops, a 6"Jet belt sander, a 2HP shaper, several shopfox tablesaws, piles of generators, etc.

If it broke tomorrow, i'd order another one. did i mention, i have done all those tools solo?



That's a neat looking gizmo, if I didn't already have an engine hoist, one of those would be on its way to my house.

Duke
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