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It strikes me that I've never built an upper face-frame cabinet before. A bit of google shows me 10,000 articles on hanging cabinets, but a couple on making them.
I have the sides and back as high as the face frame. The rabbit for the back is set in 1/4" to allow for modification for an untrue wall. The back has dados for the top/bottom. The sides have the rabbit for the back and the dados for the top/bottom.
This seems like the right way to do it, but I would like another set of eyes on it.
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There are as many ways to build a cabinet as there are cabinet makers.
The one thing that sticks out for me is the absence of hang rails.
My backs are flush with the back (no inset). When you hang them, you want 'em sucked up tight to the wall.
How do you plan to attach the face frame? I cut a dado into the ff verticals to
accept the sides. I've been told that's overkill...I like overkill!
I see a few other details that I do differently, but again, there's more than one way to skin this cat.
I'm a great believer in luck. The harder I work, the more of it I seem to have.
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That should work just fine. Does it end up in a corner or between other cabinets on both sides? If one side is exposed, you'll probably want to add a dress panel on that side and adjust things so the outside edge of the face frame stile and the panel are flush or close to it.
Out of curiosity, do you do your modeling with endpoints and extensions turned on?
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Maybe I shouldn't bother with the inset then. It will be just 3/4 ply, so I don't need a french cleat or anything like that.
I usually just use pocket screws and a bit of glue to hold the face frames.
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I will end up with one exposed end on the last cabinet. On the exposed end, I'll do a dress panel. The other partial exposed ends are covered by the microwave and fridge. I'll probably do a 1/4 ply panel on the one for the fridge as well.
I think I do have the endpoints on. I'm not concerned about that. I do the Sketch up to get the dimensions right and generate cutlists.
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I see...inset back w/french cleat. Not my preferred method, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
Pocket holes for the face frame...again, not my method, but I do like my Kreg jig.
Different strokes...
I'm sure they'll turn out fine.
I'm a great believer in luck. The harder I work, the more of it I seem to have.
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Drop your face frame down on bottom an 1-1/2".
Hides your future under cabinet puck lights.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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I do have puck lights on the current cabinets. I haven't measured how much room there is in that area. However, to add more room on this design, the face frame would need to be wider.
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How wide is the cabinet ? I'd get rid of the center divider.
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lincmercguy said:
I do have puck lights on the current cabinets. I haven't measured how much room there is in that area. However, to add more room on this design, the face frame would need to be wider.
Depends on your puck light, most need an inch to hide them.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
