drywall tape options

[bsheffer]

It has been a while since I have done any drywall but it looks like there are at least three type of material I can use to finish the drywall I am putting in my garage. The garage does freeze sometime if that makes a difference. Looks like they have the standard paper tape, the self adhesive mesh stuff and a much finer "fiberglass" type tape called "fibafuse". I am not an experienced drywaller but I am patient...thanks..-brian

[crokett™]

I've done lots of drywall and used paper tape, mesh tape, the setting type compound and the pre-mix. I've heard of mud cracking with the mesh tape though I've never seen it. In an unheated garage and since you are in Maryland and I assume are doing this now, I'd go with paper tape and the setting type 'hot mud'. Comes in a bag, you mix it. The premix will never dry in that garage in winter. The setting type will cure for you just fine, but it is a chemical reaction so, don't mix more in the bucket than you can get on the walls, and get your tools as clean as you can before it sets up on them. I'd get the 90 minute stuff and mix it in small batches.

[bsheffer]

Crokett,....I am going to watch the temps and when it is cool, I can easily heat the garage to allow the stuff to dry. When it gets real cold, I'll probably just hold off. We just got our firs day or winter which as a skier, is about time. thanks. I hear you on the chemical/mud...-brian

[bsheffer]

Crokett, Do you know if you can mix the chemical stuff over top the all purpose joint compound or visa-versa?This project is going to take me a quite a while due to limited time available.

[goaliedad]

I helped with an addition and taped it with mesh. I got busy and could not finish it. They hired pros. They told me to always use paper. Less problems with cracks

[EricU]

the mesh is often called "repair tape." The application is that you stick it down over a crack and mud over it. It has a weak adhesive on the back for this reason. On a new seam, there is usually some gap. This means that it's really trivial to push the tape down inside the gap, so it's not flat. Cracking is inevitable if this occurs. Even the tapered sides of a board are enough to cause problems.

[whatline]

Just last week had a pro in to patch cut out section 12" x 6' and one 12' horizontal joint. He uses hot mud and the fiberglass type tape. When he was done no sanding necessary. I'm sure that was his skill not the tape. Does make sense that fiberglass reinforces better than paper just my 2 cents

[crokett™]

bsheffer said:

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Crokett, Do you know if you can mix the chemical stuff over top the all purpose joint compound or visa-versa?This project is going to take me a quite a while due to limited time available.

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Yes. I've done hot mud over drying type and drying type over hot mud. I've not had any issues. i usually do the last coat as the drying type. It's easier to control consistency and IMO it sands easier. I've often taped at night when every one is asleep because it's quiet. I use the drying type then - a) I am only doing one coat per day so drying isn't a factor and b) it cleans up a lot easier.

I keep a bucket of water handy, I can just drop tools in it to keep the mud from drying out on them

[theeviltwinn]

I like the paper tape.

Keep the area a constant temperature. This means no heating up while you work and letting it get cold over night. You want 55 min (65 is even better) 24hrs a day and at least three days after you are finished. After that you should be fine.

Make sure each coat is completely dry before adding another.

Twinn

[MstrCarpenter]

I've hung and taped too many jobs for a finish carpenter to admit, but when I had the big crew we basically let the G.C.'s crew move on to frame the next job while we did drywall, finish carpentry, painting, and touch-ups before occupancy. I've used lots of "pro tapers" over the years and they all have their favorite materials and methods. Some will even swear there is a front and back of paper tape; yet they disagree on which is which, so it won't bother me if someone says my way is wrong. I've used lots of different methods, but the following "three coat method" is pretty well accepted for a level 3 or 4 finish. (level 5 uses the same steps but gets a final thin coat over any exposed paper and blemishes, if any, are minute.)
1) Prepare damaged areas; cut out paper from any blisters, bumped corners, crushed edges, and missed screws that left more than a screw hole.
2) put mesh tape on all "flats" (two tapered edges on one plane) and over larger size areas addressed above.
3) slowly mix 3/4 bag of Duro-bond 90 into water. Add more water as necessary in very small increments (there's a good chance you'll add too much; hence the remaining 1/4 bag). Re-mix in about two minutes, put beater bar in water, and quickly begin filling the flats. Also fill the damaged areas and any gaps 1/4" or larger. If the Duro-bond starts to set, you can use it up fast on corner bead then mix more in a CLEAN bucket. Do not leave Duro-bond proud; it contains Portland cement. It cannot be sanded!
4) Use ready mix compound with paper tape (I don't care which side goes out) on the butts and inside corners. The seams should be filled and there should be close to 1/16" under the tape. This is considered "first coat" and as it dries it will suck against the sheets and into the seams. The screws get their first coat now too. Fill the holes and scrape the sheet clean. (They'll get two more passes)
5) When dry, scrape any "boogers" with a 6" knife (sanding should not be required). I use either ready mix or setting type (Easy-Sand) compound for second coat depending on the job size and dry time. "Second coat" means just that, except I only pull one side of inside corners. So before I start I decide which sides I'll do first to minimize dragging over wet mud. (i.e. looking in a corner I'll choose right wall vertical, left wall at ceiling and the ceiling at right wall. The next corner is reversed) I prefer to do the flats before the butts so I'll do the wall (vs. the ceiling) at the ends of the sheets. The second half of the corners get done when the first half is completely dry. The screws get a second coat too. Now's a good time to push the sheets against the studs to ensure none of the screws will "Pop", then, same as first time; scrape the wall dry.
6) Again, scrape any "boogers". Third coat typically uses the least amount of mud so unless I'm pushed for time I use ready-mix with about 1/2 cup of water and 1/4 cup of liquid dish soap. Finishing compound is readily available on the west coast but it's not often available here in the northeast. I want third coat to be my final, but it's hard to strike a happy medium between "That looks great!" and "I can do better." I wish I could afford to have someone who's only job is to say; "STOP! That's good enough.
7) Time to sand! If the Taper was indeed "Professional", the corners should be done except for where he lifted his 6" knife. I use a long sanding sponge. One pass usually does it. Everywhere else gets a sanding pole with 120 -150 grit open coat. After sanding I'll look for any blemishes with a bright flashlight across the surface and touch up with that third coat mix so it wont need sanding again. I'll check again the same way after primer and before finish coat.

I've been using this system for many years and can report no unexplained failures over the long term. The few failures I've encountered were "operator error"; usually from not waiting for first coat to dry or starving the joint causing the paper tape to blister when painting. I personally have not installed "no coat" tape, but it does help straighten out corners and easily keeps those angles for cathedral ceilings nice and straight. Again, no failures observed, but they were done by "professionals".