CA finish vs Hutt Wax finish for pens
#11
I was wondering if there was a advantage and disadvantages of using CA glue as a finish instead of wax on pens. I am a newbie to pens and seems like there is more room for error with CA.
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#12
CA is much much harder and also harder to apply. Hut wax is easy to apply and lasts several years depending on everyday use. I used both and like the ease of hut but like the durability of CA if it will be used daily.

Also CA will take some time to learn to apply correctly. I found thru experience not to apply 10 coats but apply 2 coats then sand and apply 2 more sand to 12000 and call it done.
I found to much CA will cause crazing after 4 years or so.

Good luck and I really look forward to seeing what you make.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#13
The fumes from CA make me steer away from it. It's a nice shiny finish that you won't get from Hutt though.
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#14
Jim

If you have dust collection going you will not get but a very very small amount.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#15
I have used Hutt on other stuff, don't really like it. Wax isn't all that durable.

Capt. Eddie has a video on CA finish on pens. Capt Eddie on youtube
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#16
If the pen is used daily, the wax will wear off in barely one month. What was once nice and shiny will degrade to a dull, matte finish. CA provides a durable, shiny finish. You won't be able to get a satin or matte finish with CA. CA also requires you to get micromesh pads or their equivalent, and/or some plastic polish to achieve a glossy finish.

I've personally watched a ton of videos on how to apply CA, and I've never been able to get it to work for me. I always end up sanding off most of the CA in the process. Maybe I'm being too aggressive. Some day I'll watch someone do it live and in person and get tutored. I just don't feel like "learning" on expensive wood. These days, I mostly turn acrylic pens partly for that reason.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#17
I learned CA finish by trial and error. I find the best CA to use is the one sold by LV, SuperT. I tried the one from Gorilla and it was a total flop. I put on about 4 thin coats, then go through the micromesh pads. Wipe with paper towel in between sanding. If I am happy with the finish will polish with a liquid car polish. Makes a long lasting finish. Wax finishes or turners polish will not last more than a month before going dull.

Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
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#18
Have you tried blo/ca?
“How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard.”

- Winnie the Pooh, as relayed through Author A. A. Milne
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#19
Mel

Carnauba wax is much harder then the car wax by along way. If you want I have a little piece to send you to try.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#20
I've used CA on my pens for over 8 years and believe it is the only finish to put on pens. The shine and finish of CA will outlast the metal plating on the pens, it is that durable. There are many different methods and techniques to apply a CA finish. Some are similar some are completely different. Here is how I apply my CA finish. I first dry sand my blanks to 400 and then blow off any dust that is on the blank. I use Viva paper towels folded length wise in half 3x's for my applicator. I use E-Z Bond CA--I will use their orange thin CA or the medium CA for all coats. I apply 10 coats by drizzling a light coat over the blank as the blank turns at 300 -400 rpms on the lathe. I let it dry between each coat. Some times I will use a very light mist of accelerator to assist the drying. After each application I cut off the piece of paper towel that I used to apply the CA. (I also have a small fan that I have blowing over my shoulder to keep from breathing any fumes that might get generated during the process.) After 10 coats I lightly sand the blank with 220 grit paper and work my way thru 400 grit. After sanding, make sure you get all of the CA dust off of the blank and out of any grain. If not, it will appear as a white speck on the blank when you are finished. Next, I repeat the process and apply 10 more coats of CA. Dry sand as before. Once it is dry sanded, use wet micro mesh to polish the finish to a high gloss. I usually will rub each level of micro mesh about 20 to 30 times quickly back and forth on the blank. After I have finished with the micro mesh, I will sometimes buff it on the buffing wheel or use a plastic polish.

Some people will say that 20 coats is over kill. Maybe it is but it fills all the grain and any imperfections that might be in the wood. It can also be used on acrylic if you have some chip out.

Hope that helps.
Steve

PS--When applying the CA make sure you are rubbing it back and forth quickly on the blank. This will help keep the CA smooth and will also generate some heat which will help cure the CA. Also, I recommend the nylon bushings to hold your blanks when applying the CA.
The youth of today will keep America strong and free.
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