Exterior door in masonry wall
#11
I'm going to be putting in a door to my partial basement. Currently there are Bilco doors and then steps going down to the basement but no other segregation between the outside air and basement which is directly under the master bedroom, which is proving to be...cold this time of year.

Because it's such a small opening I'll no doubt have to order a custom door. If it were only short I'd perhaps consider cutting down an off the shelf door but it's also narrow.

The sides of the opening are the ends of cinder blocks and the header is a piece of angle iron and I guess concrete (see pictures). My plan would be to cut out the couple of pieces of rebar and then grind down (carefully!) the extra mortar on the concave part of the blocks so that they're all fairly uniform. I'd then fur out the concave portion with perhaps PVC trim (I'd consider PT but I don't really want to plane that in case it winds up being an odd depth) and then do either a PT 2x4/2x6 or maybe 5/4 PT decking over that to create a uniform opening. I'd use probably Tapcons to attach everything and then again through the door frame assuming that the wood thickness isn't really enough to anchor the door to. For the header I suppose I can drill and tap into the angle iron and then Tapcons into the concrete unless there's an alternative? Perhaps a wood header supported by the side casing and attached to the angle iron with construction adhesive would be sufficiently strong given that it's not truly an exterior door?




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#12
I would consider a commercial insulated hollow metal door frame in this situation.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#13
I'm definitely not opposed to that idea. How would that be installed in that opening?
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#14
I'd size the frame to fit tight into the opening and then attach it to the masonry with recessed screws into drilled holes in the block & expansion anchors. You then grind the screw flush if its proud, prime and paint. The frame would then be filled with expanding foam and sealant applied inside and out.

look at the last diagram on this webpage.

http://www.commdoor.com/hmf.html


You have the frame drilled or punched and the holes dimpled so a recessed machine screw can be used and lay mostly flush. You can do the drilling and dimpling yourself with a punch and mandrel made from a large socket.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#15
[blockquote]ebarker9 said:







I don't see an opening size, but , the first thing I would do is see if a standard size insulated steel door fits.
Fill those depressions with morter where the jamb is going. Treated 2X if there is room, for jamb and header.....if there is not room either go to 5/4 board or 1X...

Dado the header into the sides and Tapcon and use canned insulation foam to seal the jamb in....
Hang door as normal and trim/caulk it in....


The header doen not need angle iron, it's concrete.

Andrew
"That's like getting a running start and diving headfirst into the vortex."

                                 Steve Freidman 4/21/2013
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#16
It's tight...roughly 76" to the header and just shy of 40" wide.
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#17
A standard Hollow Metal frame for a 3' door would fit the width nicely. you might have to grind off a bit of masonry with a diamond wheel on a grinder to perfect the fit. You'd have to cut the bottom off though to fit tight to the header There would still be enough frame left below the hinge recesses though if you ordered a 3' x 6'-8" door frame. I'd look for a scratch and dent model myself from your local commercial door hardware supplier.

Treated wood would be a decent alternative for your frame though if you want to stay with wood.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#18
Measure your opening. Doors are standard sized as are rough openings. Find a local millwork supplier.... maybe even home depot or lows. Get an exterior steel door with a knock down frame that allows room enough for you to fir out the opening. Shim and nail/screw in your wood framing, seal and install the door and frame. As long as you can fit a standard door in the hole, it shouldn't be too difficult. You might have to open a custom size. .
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#19
I would fasten doubled up plywood blocks in 3 places on each side.
This is for a nailer for the jamb.The blocking can be flush or even shallow of the block face,just a nailer. Make a frame that is wide enough to cover the ends of the block,appears to be 6" block,maybe 4". Make up two jambs ,the head and a temporary spreader at the bottom.
Set the frame in the opening,level the head.Screw into the nailers making sure the jamb is plumb and straight. I have never used PVC for jambs ,if they hold a screw then it sounds good to me.The trim on the basement side also will help to keep the jambs straight and stiff.You can build the frame,attach the trim then set in the opening.
If you do not want to make a custom door, buy a solid exterior door and cut it to your opening. The hinge mortises are left,rip the lock side to dimension and bore the holes for the lockset.
There is a cheap and better way to install the blocking besides Tapcons.Drill thru the lumber and block with a 3/16" masonary bit.
Drill about 4" deep,place a 4" piece of tie wire (re-bar tying wire) in the hole and drive a 16d galvanized nail in the hole. You will find that is extremely difficult to pull the nail, the nail and wire make a secure fastener and cost about nothing.Try to place the holes in solid part of the block.


mike
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#20
Commercial metal door and frame. Welded punch and dimple frame, custom height x 3'0" door width (40" RO). Do not order a knock down frame! You will need more than 40" to install it.


Al
I turn, therefore I am!
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