Hollowing with the Sorby Multie Tip Tool - Doing something wrong!
#11
Hey all,

I am just starting to take a crack at doing some hollowing. I have a small (maybe 5" diamter) black walnut blank mounted on my chuck. I have formed the outside of the piece and am trying to start hollowing. I have a starter hole from the wood screw that I used for the initial mounting.

So I am in the same situation as in this Sorby instructional video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTDdPIW8WjQ

See the video starting at the 2:00 mark and ending at the 3:30 point.

In the video, the tool produces nice chips that flow off the tool. In my shop, the tool produces a little saw dust, a lot of heat, and a lot of cursing!

Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? The cutter tip has never been used before and feels like it has a nice sharp edge.

Thanks for any help!
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#12
I'd try honing or sharpening the cutter.
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#13
bubba

I do not know if the wood in the video is wet wood or dry. To me it sounds like your wood is dry and it will give dust but should be giving shavings also.

I have never used that tool before, but like I said if it is wet wood they are using then the shavings will be flying off of there.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#14
1} the cutter needs to be sharpened
2} the rest needs to be higher than normal. That tool likes to cut at the centerline. That means the rest has to be at center.
3} You can set the rest above center and raise the tool handle so the cutter is at center. This makes a sharp cutter pretty aggresive
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#15
Arlin Eastman said:


bubba

I do not know if the wood in the video is wet wood or dry. To me it sounds like your wood is dry and it will give dust but should be giving shavings also.

I have never used that tool before, but like I said if it is wet wood they are using then the shavings will be flying off of there.

Arlin




Arlin,

I forgot to say that the wood is dry.
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#16
I will touch up the cutter and give it another shot. I will make sure that the cutter is at the centerline, and the tool is slightly declined toward the wood.

Thanks for the replies!!
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#17
I would start off with drilling as big a hole as I could, especially if this is endgrain you are trying to hollow.
Then use a spindle gouge on it’s back and turn the gouge till it starts making shavings while you pull it sideways and towards you, cutting the wood
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijZ8Ph8KWcw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3kt72wbogA
Sidegrain you can cut with a bowl gouge, of course a square scraper can be used also, just push it straight in at center.
Does that tool you want to use have a grind that is at 90 degrees or so close to it the bevel rubs the wood and is unable to cut, and yes it has to be sharp like any woodworking tool.
Have fun and take care
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#18
+1 on sharpening. That tool works best with a burr on the tip. Not sure which kind of wood you're cutting, but if it's a dry exotic hardwood, you may need to touch up that tip several times during the hollowing process. Manufacturers are fond of showing their tools cutting green wood. Makes it look like their tools are SO easy to use.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#19
Sharpen the cutter. Start with an open form like a cup or a bowl where you can see the cutter. Drill a 1" hole in the center and practice making it bigger.

Twinn
Will post for food.
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#20
Sounds like everyone has you covered. I started with the hollowmaster. You'll eventually get it figured out. It isn't very easy to use, and you'll feel frustrated with it a lot, but that's common with that tool. I eventually got a feel for it.

Do you get chips at first, and then it stops cutting? If so, you may be getting clogged inside the form, where a chip covers the cutting edge. You have to clear shavings pretty frequently.
I'm slow, but I do poor work.
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