Posts: 11,636
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2006
hueman2 said:
I have an 20 x 20 detached, stick built shop with some insulation that I use year round. Outside temperatures during working time usually above 35 degrees. I'm trying to get away from propane heat but options seem a bit slim. Wood burning stove is not an option. Any thoughts?
I have a 20x20 open ceiling pole barn with minimal insulation in the roof and walls. I am in Idaho where this time of year the highs are around freezing and the lows are in the lower teens. I keep the shop temp @ at least 40* at all times and bump it up to 55-65* when I am in there working. I have two of the electric Cadet "The Hot One" 4000 watt heaters in the shop that run on separate 20Amp 240V circuits. I have one set at the lowest setting on the internal thermostat and that is what maintains the 40* temp at all times. The other unit is the one that I turn on high and use to heat when I want to get out there and work. I could easily get by with only one of them but I just like the convenience of having both of them. BTW if I turn both on high I can have the temp go from 40-65 in almost no time. The 4000 watt unit cost $200-$250. They also, make a 5000watt unit that is about $50 more but it requires a 30Amp 240V circuit.
Posts: 3,385
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2007
I have a detached 24x24 shop, and had a mobile home furnace installed by my neighbor. He owns a HVAC business. Thermostat controlled.
4 well placed ducts and it work just fine. Lucky for me, not that often......
Gunners Mate, 1st Class, A long time ago...
Posts: 1,808
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2000
I have a 20'x24' shop and heat it with this:
It's 75,000BTU's and very efficient. I moved it from my other shop that was Natural gas. I needed to convert it to Propane and I have these for my tanks.
Propane costs are down and I can heat my shop for over two weeks on one tank(100lbs), even in this cold (single digits). If you're averaging 35 degrees you could run a tank for over a month. Propane here in MN is $64 for 100lbs.
I have two tanks and the device between them switches tanks when the one runs out. I have a thermostat that I program to warm up the shop to 63 degrees in the morning and then 40 degrees after I leave for the day. If I'm gluing up or finishing a project I can "hold" the temp indefinitely until I decide to run the program.
Gary
Living under the radar, heading for "off the grid."
Posts: 588
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2010
How much do you use the shop? If a few hours a day then electric is the way to go. You can get a Dayton heater that will heat the shop nicely. If you use it all day then looking into gas may be a more cost effective option.
Like everyone said insulation is the key. If you can hold the heat the heater doesn't need to work as hard.
Don
Posts: 1,162
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2007
If you are interested in air conditioning as well, a Mini-split AC/heat pump works well. The new ones continue to work fairly well down into the 20s. Very pleased with mine. I keep it set at 74 in the summer and 66 in the winter. I wouldn't have a shop without air conditioning. And agree with value of good insulation. Ray
Posts: 2,581
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2012
Nobody has said anything about an oil stove. I have a mid size
Toyostove, a Laser 56, in my shop about 22' X 40'. Our weather is cooler than yours. I keep it at ~55° in the shop, but can crank it up to 70° without too much lag if I'm finishing. Walls and ceiling are insulated. I burn about one 275 gallon tank of fuel a year. Service needs are minimal.
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
hueman2 said:
I have an 20 x 20 detached, stick built shop with some insulation that I use year round. Outside temperatures during working time usually above 35 degrees. I'm trying to get away from propane heat but options seem a bit slim. Wood burning stove is not an option. Any thoughts?
What is your goal? 50*, 60*, 70* ?
I too wonder what your reluctance to LP is? It's the only thing other than wood to burn, that you can bring to almost any location with no sweat. Water, electricity, and Nat gas all depend on availability. If you are near 35* that is still plenty cold if you want to do finishing, glue ups. For electric heat units anything on 110 is junk for heating you to 60* It will require 220.
I'll agree the best spent 1K will be greater insulation. Cut down the heat loss, and drafts, and you are half way home. I insulated my SW Ohio 32x48 shop as well as I could. Initially I was thinking of a LP furnace. After being out there I have changed my Winter approach, and use a 25k LP gas unit that burns 99.8% and requires no venting. I can get toasty, and use the big equipment. Then I take the surfaced stock indoors to the basement in climate control, and assemble, and finish. House is already heated. Win win. In our Summers it gets to 99* with 99% RH. I just keep the doors closed, and up until about 4:30PM I am fine with a few fans running. Later afternoon it gets toasty. By morning with that big concrete slab, it's all cooled off again
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
Posts: 2,115
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2005
RE Insulation in the summer. I have no AC in the shop because it just never get that warm in there during the summer. Frequently there is a 15 degree delta, 85 outside, 70 inside. Very large shade trees around the shop. The only irritating problem I have is that I cannot open the windows in the summer due to the temp/humidly unbalance. If I open the window, warm moist air comes into the shop, hits cool cast iron surfaces, causing condensation and the subsequent rust. I don't see any rust on hand tools that I found when the shop was in the basement.
Posts: 1,806
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2010
My shop is 26x32 10 foot ceilings
I have a sealed hot dog heater very similar to the one shown it is propane
im old and do not like to be cold so I set it at 68 or more in the day time and 45 at night
WELL INSULATED even the floor [cement] I used less that one tank of propane last winter [ Michigan]
I have a three hundred gallon tank
I started off using an electric heater worked great but I had 140/50 dollar electric bills now they are 30/40 so I am way cheaper using propane
and more comfortable because it gets up to temperature far quicker than my electric did
did I say I am well insulated as everyone has said with out the insulation nothing works excellent you are just wasting your money
Posts: 768
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Asheville, North Carolina
Here in the mountains of Western North Carolina, the local people swear by kerosene monitor heaters. They attach to an outside wall and draw air for combustion from the outside and exhaust to the outside so you never smell kerosene or have an open flame inside the building. They heat quietly and quickly. They're also very economical. I have one in our house and one in my shop. You can program them to turn on at certain times or just set the thermostat for a specific temp. Buy them used on craigslist and keep an eye out for kerosene when people are moving or changing their heating system. You can usually get it for one to two dollars a gallon that way. I wouldn't have any other system.
Bill
