How do I attach a...

[ruffcutt]

Nobody told him to Google it.

[Steve N]

ruffcutt said:

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Nobody told him to Google it.

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Man, I must be on a list somewhere now. I agree it's about passing it along, but sometimes I will write down how I do it, and look at it, just clear as mud...... So I'll Google and find a video where it is shown with the belief that seeing, hearing is better than just reading any day to pass along information....... I always thought if someone could "Google" why would they ask some of the basic questions they ask.

I have been so wrong, and now I have been told.


At least I know who's threads to never answer again

[MstrCarpenter]

Herebrooks said:

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Tapcons

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The makers of Tapcons have engineered a surprisingly consistent success rate of 68% regardless of how many "tricks" or "trade secrets" you know.
I have therefore added Tapcons to the list of items that I have absolutely no "darn" use for! I would trust one 5/16" Red Head anchor over ten tapcons.

A few years ago I tried to pull an angle iron bracket off a concrete wall with the Bobcat; no luck. All I could see holding it was the square head of a single bolt. I assumed it must be through bolted. It turned out to be only a 3/8" x 3 1/2" lag bolt into a wood plug. I'm pretty sure the 3/4" hole was "drilled" with a star bit too.

[Herb G]

Since you guys gave me some great ideas, I decided to go with these. LINKY
I plan on making the 2 x 4's a little longer than I was going to, so I can run them to the floor joists above the shop. Then I guess I will have to hammer drill some decent anchors in the block wall to attach them to that wall. Here's the anchors I plan on using.
Linky

Then I can attach my angle brackets & finally the shelves.
I guess there's no such thing as a fast project in this house. Never has been.

[Gary G™]

Don't over complicate it.
1/4" lead hollow anchors drilled into the block will be more than adequate for the small load you're describing.
For heavier loads, I use 3/8" redhats.

[Steve N]

Herb if you know you will never end up putting weight on them over 40# why do you need to attach to the wall at all. Why not but one of those 4 or 5 tier storage shelves, and just put it in front of the cinder block wall.

I say that mostly because I have made a lot of $$$$$$ going into people's basements after they destroyed their cinder block foundation walls trying to put in all manner of tapcons, and other hardware, I can say that repair work is costly. Leave the wall itself alone, either put a shelf up, or if you feel the need to build, make a fake wall attached to your floor joists above, and sitting on a treated plate below. Knock in studs 16" OC, and shelve it, drywall it, do whatever to it you may want to, just don't penetrate the block wall it is my advice.

[Richard D.]

I say use Tapcons as well but what has not been mentioned is to place them in the grout (not Joe). It leaves the integrity of the block and might even be stronger.

I would like to see documentation from the manufacturer regarding a 68% success rate as I have had much better results. The biggest issue with installation that I have come across is not clearing the hole of the fine dust that drilling generates.

If you don't already have a hammer drill (and with block walls you should) Rigid makes a decent inexpensive one that will also serve as an electric drill. Blow out or vacuum the holes a few times as you drill and before sinking the Tapcon. An 18V impact with a hex head is a good way to drive them. 3/16" would work fine.

Drilling through a 2x4 won't allow you to blow out the hole.

[MstrCarpenter]

Richard D. said:

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I would like to see documentation from the manufacturer regarding a 68% success rate as I have had much better results. The biggest issue with installation that I have come across is not clearing the hole of the fine dust that drilling generates.

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The 68% was a joke; however in my experience Tapcons worked as advertised just barely enough for me to keep buying them. I'd grade them with a D-. When I learned (actually discovered by necessity) that a small zip tie or a couple of coffee stirrers from Dunkin Donuts will make the stripped Tapcon bite, I also learned that I no longer have any need for Tapcons. Ceramic coated or S.S. deck screws work great, with expectable and quickly repeatable results. I also discovered that running them right in melts the plastic a little producing a better hold.

[fishhh4]

You do not want to drive tapcons with an impact !!! Drill Driver on low....1 ......

[Herb G]

These shelves are going above one of my workbenches.
If I could just put up a unit, I'd probably do it.
I want these mounted to the wall itself, so it doesn't take up floor space, which is extremely limited in my tiny basement.

I'm going to call this thread closed. I have made up my mind as to how I'm going to do it at this point in time.