Posts: 1,741
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Denver,CO
I am building a tool stand with pine 2X 4.
Stand is complete, I painted with oil based paint. The paint is beige. I don't care for this paint. I am planning to change. I have a can of white water based paint , can I use this to paint for this tool stand? Or I have to stay with oil based paint?
Posts: 1,872
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Eastern WA
As long as the oil based paint has cured long enough, yes you can apply a water based paint to it without any issue.
Posts: 19,681
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2001
Waterborne over oil base is OK but you must be sure that the oil based paint is fully dried and cured and then scuff sanded with 240 paper.
Oil based paint can take 3-4 weeks to fully dry and cure.
Howie.........
Posts: 887
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Carlisle, PA
Do you have HVLP ... a wash coat of shellac over the oil should seal it and allow you to paint the water-based over it
Posts: 1,741
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 7,421
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2005
cams2705 said:
Do you have HVLP ... a wash coat of shellac over the oil should seal it and allow you to paint the water-based over it
That's my approach. When in doubt, a coat of Seal Coat. (Or dewaxed shellac.)
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Posts: 5,845
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2003
The shellac coat is most likely unneeded, IMO. Sand the surface for a good adhesion and make sure you shop vac it well and wipe it down. If you want a very durable top coat--waterbourne--use SW Pro Classic or Ben Moore Advance. They are waterborne alkyds, a hybrid type of interior enamel. Not cheap, but worth it. A QT goes a long way.
Posts: 14,956
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Is modern water-based really that good? Or is it just that the oil-based was so good it was hard to get enough scratches? I've faced the problem numerous times over the years with limited success.
Just yesterday, I picked up a board from my stash that was painted maybe 50-60 years ago. Scuffed it up really good and hit it with BIN. When the BIN was dry, I could scratch it off with my fingernail. So I sanded it down and hit it with Sealcoat, next I'll use more BIN, then ProClassic.
Carolyn
Trip Blog for Twelve Countries: [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]
"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson
Posts: 19,681
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2001
If the "BIN" you are referring to is a Zinsser product then it is very similar to Sealcoat. Both are primarily shellac. The BIN just has white pigment added to make it somewhat opaque.
Howie.........
Posts: 14,956
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Location: Oklahoma
That surprises me given that it's thicker than paint, but I don't doubt you.
Carolyn
Trip Blog for Twelve Countries: [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]
"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson
