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When my house was being built three years ago, I installed copper airlines with three drops in the ceiling of the 3-car garage/shop. Until now I haven't gotten around to setting up my 45 gal upright compressor, getting by with my 4 gal nail gun compressor. Now I have anchored it to the concrete floor with Red Head wedge anchors and shock pads and am ready to connect it to the airline. It's obvious that vibration would quickly destroy any kind of hard connection. My first thought was a length of high quality rubber air hose. Or maybe PEX? Any other options?
Bob
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BobW said:
My first thought was a length of high quality rubber air hose.
That's all you need.
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^^^
^^^
avoids vibration and alignment problems.
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Wild Turkey
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Yup. I went to a local "hose and coupling" business and they were very quick at making up whatever size/lengths I needed.
Mark Singleton
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Have to push back on this one. I don't see a problem with direct connections. My compressor has been on 24/7 for 20+ years and to this day no cracks or leaks. I've got about 70 feet of soldered copper, plus two 50' auto retracts, and, if I turn off the compressor power, it'll lose maybe 5 pounds in a week or so.
Mike
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Your setup is nearly identical to mine as far as securing the compressor. I came out of the tank with a street elbow into a custom-made hose with swivel fittings. The hose is long enough to allow for an overhand loop help capture any moisture and return it to the tank - and out of the system.
Sorry I don't have a better picture of the tank connections...
Hope that helps!
Dave
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
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What vibration,if any it's minimal.My own shop and others I have worked in or have seen all had solid connections.Mine is copper,some steel pipe.I wouldn't think twice about a solid connection.
You might want to add a 6" drop below the Tee. The piping should gradually slope towards the Tee for any moisture to drain.The short pipe ends with a water valve.
mike
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In our industrial setting our 10HP compressor uses a flexible pipe that looks a lot like the steel braid covered water line you see for toilets and such, just a lot larger.
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Big Dave said:
Your setup is nearly identical to mine as far as securing the compressor. I came out of the tank with a street elbow into a custom-made hose with swivel fittings. The hose is long enough to allow for an overhand loop help capture any moisture and return it to the tank - and out of the system.
Sorry I don't have a better picture of the tank connections...
Hope that helps!
Dave
Might I ask what the purpose of having a valve going to your air gauge would be?
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DieselDennis said:
Might I ask what the purpose of having a valve going to your air gauge would be?
v
Well, obviously, to isolate the gauge in the event I ever needed to.
It's actually a force of habit, really. Between the Navy & working in power plants for the last 25+ years, everything has some form of isolation on it...
Dave
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
