02-08-2016, 09:06 PM
Here's a link to Part 2
After I removed all those lovely clamps I sanded the case and then added stretchers across the top and bottom with pocket screws.
In the bottom ones I first added T-nuts into which I'll put leveling screws during installation, if necessary.
Next I started making the moldings that will dress it up. This is a shot of the larger base molding on its final pass into my Foley-Belsaw planer/molder. I was going to sell it when I bought my "new" Mini Max J/P but then realized it would be good to keep it for just this kind of work. Glad I did.
And here it is glued and pin nailed together, but not attached to the case.
The lower molding is just a chamfered, rectangular piece with a rabbet to fit under the upper molding.
I changed the knife in the molder to a door stop profile and milled the sections that will fit in the recessed openings in the sides and around the perimeter of the drawer fronts. Here are the molded pieces before ripping them to final width.
Thanks for following along.
John
After I removed all those lovely clamps I sanded the case and then added stretchers across the top and bottom with pocket screws.
In the bottom ones I first added T-nuts into which I'll put leveling screws during installation, if necessary.
Next I started making the moldings that will dress it up. This is a shot of the larger base molding on its final pass into my Foley-Belsaw planer/molder. I was going to sell it when I bought my "new" Mini Max J/P but then realized it would be good to keep it for just this kind of work. Glad I did.
And here it is glued and pin nailed together, but not attached to the case.
The lower molding is just a chamfered, rectangular piece with a rabbet to fit under the upper molding.
I changed the knife in the molder to a door stop profile and milled the sections that will fit in the recessed openings in the sides and around the perimeter of the drawer fronts. Here are the molded pieces before ripping them to final width.
Thanks for following along.
John