02-10-2016, 09:55 PM
Here's a link to Part 3.
There are several ways you can cut molding but I've found my CMS does a pretty good job if I add a sacrificial base and fence to it. Then I make a partial cut into the fence at 45 left and 45 right.
Now all you have to do is line up your tick mark on the work piece with the edge of the cut on the fence and the cut will be correct, or very close, and it eliminates tear out, too. No laser required; my saw only has one on the left side anyway, so this is a real help for me.
I fit the mitered pieces into the recessed panels on the sides of the cabinet, one piece at a time, and secured them with a few dabs of glue and pin nails.
I also ran molding around the perimeter of the drawer fronts.
Then I made the "picture frame" that will fit over the electric panel, in the same style as the cabinet.
For clearance over the cover I added some mitered strips on the back setting them back from the edge to create a shadow line.
It's a little hard to see, but there's a rabbet in the top piece that will fit over the head of a couple of screws to hang it in place.
Time for the drawers. After I cut the Baltic birch plywood to size, I cut 1/2" finger joints using a small shop made sled. The height is set just a smidgen higher than the thickness of the stock.
The lower drawer is 10" deep, so I made test cuts in the cut offs.
OK, all good, so I cut the drawer joints. I cut the parts wider than their final width because my dado doesn't cut exactly 1/2" slots.
I ripped that little extra off on all the parts, and then cut dados for the drawer bottoms using my rip blade, taking two passes to get a good fit in the undersized 1/4" plywood.
After confirming everything fit properly, I finish sanded the inside surfaces and then I glued up the drawers. I clamp right over the joints using rigid 3/4" pink foam insulation as a flexible caul, backed up by a wooden one. A bottom that fits with almost no slop almost guarantees a square drawer but it's always important to verify it.
After they came out of the clamps, I sanded the outsides of the drawers, and then ran a little chamfer around the top edges, both inside and out to make it more knuckle friendly.
Next up - Final prep. and finishing.
John
There are several ways you can cut molding but I've found my CMS does a pretty good job if I add a sacrificial base and fence to it. Then I make a partial cut into the fence at 45 left and 45 right.
Now all you have to do is line up your tick mark on the work piece with the edge of the cut on the fence and the cut will be correct, or very close, and it eliminates tear out, too. No laser required; my saw only has one on the left side anyway, so this is a real help for me.
I fit the mitered pieces into the recessed panels on the sides of the cabinet, one piece at a time, and secured them with a few dabs of glue and pin nails.
I also ran molding around the perimeter of the drawer fronts.
Then I made the "picture frame" that will fit over the electric panel, in the same style as the cabinet.
For clearance over the cover I added some mitered strips on the back setting them back from the edge to create a shadow line.
It's a little hard to see, but there's a rabbet in the top piece that will fit over the head of a couple of screws to hang it in place.
Time for the drawers. After I cut the Baltic birch plywood to size, I cut 1/2" finger joints using a small shop made sled. The height is set just a smidgen higher than the thickness of the stock.
The lower drawer is 10" deep, so I made test cuts in the cut offs.
OK, all good, so I cut the drawer joints. I cut the parts wider than their final width because my dado doesn't cut exactly 1/2" slots.
I ripped that little extra off on all the parts, and then cut dados for the drawer bottoms using my rip blade, taking two passes to get a good fit in the undersized 1/4" plywood.
After confirming everything fit properly, I finish sanded the inside surfaces and then I glued up the drawers. I clamp right over the joints using rigid 3/4" pink foam insulation as a flexible caul, backed up by a wooden one. A bottom that fits with almost no slop almost guarantees a square drawer but it's always important to verify it.
After they came out of the clamps, I sanded the outsides of the drawers, and then ran a little chamfer around the top edges, both inside and out to make it more knuckle friendly.
Next up - Final prep. and finishing.
John