How would you finish this?

[JokerRN]

Finishing assembly on these two basket Barbie storage (seriously) cabinets and I am wondering how I should finish them.



The case and shelves are mahogany veneered MDF and the top and face frame are solid mahogany. They will have baskets on each shelf and will see medium to heavy use by a 4 year old girl. I don't intend to stain them.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[JR1]

I'd use a 1# coat of Garnet shellac although if you like a lighter color you could use Orange/Amber shellac—either will bring up the grain nicely. Then I'd topcoat with either Crystalac Polyox or any of the GF waterborne tocoats . These are water cleanup, self leveling and very easy to use. They can be sprayed or applied with a foam brush.

[JokerRN]

Thanks for the advice. Forgive me, as I'm a newbie at this stuff, but do I need to fill the grain before finishing with that process?

[cputnam]

I'm no expert but I think multiple applications of shellac, wet sanded will fill the grain. For these pieces that will be abused I don't think I would go to the trouble. Consider just shellac for the finish - the repair is just more shellac - about a 15 minute job. With a tough topcoat, repairs are more difficult - mostly you get to strip the pieces and start over. Just a thought.

[fredhargis]

Seems to me that filling (or not) the grain is a matter of personal taste. My wife believes everything should be baby butt smooth, but I like to see the pores on some wooden pieces.

[Trusty Rusty]

If it's new to you , keep it simple.
Wipe on a coat or 2 of Seal a Cell to bring out the color of the Mahogany then topcoat with a few easy wipe on coats of Arm r Seal.
It's easy peasy and will be tough as nails.
I would not worry with filling the grain.
My 2 ¢
Rusty

[JR1]

Generally a grain filler diminishes the grain and tends to make the piece look plastic. IMHO they are only desirable in a very few cases. e.g. on Oak or other open grain woods when the surface will be used for writing etc.

If the surface seems rough after sanding to 320 grit then another coat of shellac may be needed.

Shellac is the easiest finish to repair, but the waterborne finishes are very easy as well. Just scuff sand a little and apply more finish. You will need to sand to the same grit as the rest of the finish after the repair has cured.

BTW Arm-R-Seal is an excellent finish and you don't need shellac under it, unless you want to change the color of the wood. But it cures slowly and is a PITA to apply compared to shellac or waterborne.

Do test whatever finish schedule you decide on on some scrap to make shure that you like it.

[Scoony]

I would fill the grain on the top surfaces only. If done correctly, will actually enhance the grain.

I would wipe on a coat of an oil based finish, then top coat with a water based finish if your spraying. If you do fill the grain, you will need to seal the surface with shellac.

[JokerRN]

Thanks for all the advice. I curr nelly own sanding sealer and Arm R Seal, so I will likely got that route. I'll post a pic when I get there.

Thanks again.

[JR1]

Don't mess with the sanding sealer! It is for commercial shops who use NC lacquer and reduces their costs. It has no use in fine WW.
Make sure the Arm R Seal is completely cured between coats!