mortise and tenon shelf configuration-what size stock?
#11


I am going to build a bunch of shelves for my newly configured garage somewhat like the example above. Basically, the shelves will be cantilevered. I like the M&T joinery for this project as it is just cleaner. It also allows me to completely customize shelf heights and depths.

The biggest set of shelves I want to cover is an area about 8 feet wide by 9 feet tall and more than likely, I want the shelves to be at least 24 inches wide...possibly a little wider. This means the horizontal framing pieces might need to be 20+ inches long.

As far as usage, I have what I would call a "gentlemen's garage" vs a garage where I am tearing motors out and the like. Bottom line, probably about the heaviest items I am talking about might be a pancake compressor and associated retracting hose real. Decking will probably be 3/4 inch birch so that is the easiest part. Typical 16 inch on center studs.

I always have a tendency to over-engineer everything but what type of wood would you use for the horizontal and vertical framing of this? I have no problem spending a few bucks but my sense is I don't want to use typical cheap pine 2x4's but I guess I could. I have done smaller shelving units with Ash which is obviously a wonderfully strong wood but expensive as I assume I am probably talking about thicker stock???
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#12
I have 24" deep shelving I made 30 yrs ago using construction grade framing lumber that is still standing

It is a garage no need for much special as far as shelving goes For instance I store three sets of tire chains and a 2 hp motor on one shelf and it spans 30" that is far more weight than your compressor will ever be

JME

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#13
I put in Rubbermaid wire shelving in my garage. It was pretty expensive but went up fast. I spent about $400.00 or so. But I think it is good for the sale of the house in a few years. I don't think home built shelving will aid in the sale of the house.

Just a thought.

I put up all the shelves and brackets in the garage in just one day. Fast an easy. The hardest part was transporting the shelving from Lowes to my house.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#14
I hear what you are saying. My plan was to use "good wood" to the point where I could go with smaller stock than this photo so it does not look quite as bulky. Round everything off and try to dress it up a bit. Probably a few coats of high quality paint to top it off to match some other components in my garage. "concealing" all hardware attachment points...and so forth..

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

I did find this nifty little "sag calculator" which also appears helpful.
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#15
Lemme get this straight. . . ..

You want to mortise into a stud 3 1/2" deep and then cantilever a shelf that is at least 24" wide out from it? And then put a pancake compressor on it?

I don't think you're over building it. I think you've got about 4 options:

1) front legs to hold up the front side of the shelf
2) a shorter shelf. 24" is like cantilvering a countertop.
3) Put the heavy items on the floor
4) Buying a shelving unit at the BORG. Or atleast some metal shelving brackets.

I applaud your woodworking and finished desires though.
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#16
well sort of....I want to use something like a 2x2 8 foot long piece of let's say oak running vertically up against a drywall wall with lag bolts to hold it against the wall and into the studs. Then, every so many inches of this vertical Oak piece, there will be for instance a 22 inch horizontal 2x2 or whatever, piece of oak mortised into that 8 foot piece to which the decking(in this case probably 3/4 inch birch will sit. I am not sure the word Cantilevered should have been used as I might have mislead. The 3/4 inch shelf will be fully supported with the exception of something like a 2 inch overhang. Does this make sense. According to that calculator on a previous post, it looks like with a 30 lb center load on the shelf, I could easily span 32 inches vs the 16 inches I was originally thinking. Shelving would be 24 inches wide although I may extend it out to 30 inches or so.
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#17
Like Joe I have been using framing lumber for HEAVY shelves for 45 years, the originals were still standing and going strong as of 3 weeks ago.

My standard shelf is 2x4 framed 24 wide x 72, to 96" long, and I hang them from at least one wall with lag screws, and then just support them with 2x legs in front from ground, to the top of the top shelf. Pics below give the idea of the way I support, and use them. The wood racks are 12' wide, so 3, 4' wide x 96" long sections. Lag screwed to the wall, sitting on top of a ledger board. The ledger is just to aid in holding up the shelf while I lag it to the wall. I suppose it does add some support as well, but if I have enough help I've made plenty with no ledger, and they survive loads the same. I use 6" lags, and bolted, and lagged together. Currently the wood rack has about 3500 bd/ft of wood, and assorted junk on it. In the past these shelves have held up to 3 V8 motors per shelf in my "car guy" buddies shop.


Empty rack, gives the best look at the build



View from underneath. 2x4 framed, with a single 2x4 up the middle, sheathed in 1/2 OSB, or ply, whichever is cheaper at the time.





Starting to get filled up. Currently a lot less junk, and a darn sight more lumber


Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#18
When I get back in the shop will take a few pics of my cantilevered lumber racks

That is the place I used 2x4 red oak for the extended arms but you will see why when I take the pics

funny thing is I have the entire support structure (construction grade 2x6) buried in the wall with the stretchers tenoned and inserted into the wall.
Oh yeah it is on both sides of said wall.

again no problems
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#19
J grout, you are over the target. This is really a question of lumber size, joinery(m&t) strength, and type of lumber. In our area, there is a ton of oak which might be the best way to go. Black ash is also another wonderful strong solution. Poplar is much cheaper but I am unsure if it is strong enough.
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#20
poplar is stronger than construction lumber

somehow I get the feeling you just want to use good wood for not so important shelving.


use what you want

you got my .02
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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