threaded insert tip needed
#21
Here is an installation jig from Woodsmith Magazine.

http://www.woodsmith.com/files/issues/14...panels.pdf
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#22
Joe said it best and that is what has worked for me for years.
Ken
Carolyn "Kscott & GDay, can I come sniff you?"
Timberwolf "You ARE WHO you eat"!!!!!!! "
Spokeshave "You're swallowing someone else's DNA right now."
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#23
Another option is to wax the support points, put globs of hot-melt glue on the insert and while it's still plastic press into flush position. Let it cool and solidify and you're done.

The techniques using a drill press with either a tap, then setscrew, or with threaded insert also work fine.
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#24
kscott said:


Joe said it best and that is what has worked for me for years.
Ken


+1 very easy to do
Alaskan's for Global Warming
Eagle River AK
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#25
I drilled and tapped four 8/32 holes in the lip of the casting and four counter sunk screws in the insert. Then I placed four dabs of silicone caulk near each hole in the casting.When the insert is installed the screws are snugged up til the insert is even with the table.
Did the same with a router table.Wait til the silicone is rubbery before you install the insert. The silicone is only installed once, lasts for years.If you go this route ,make sure the holes in the inserts are all the same.I made mine exactly 2" from each end and centered on the lip.
mike
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#26
>>>> just thread the hardwood and install the screws of choice

Yup, been doing that for forty years. Works in plywood and MDF too. In most cases you don't have to thread the hole. Just drive your screw of choice. They'll cut their own threads.
Howie.........
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#27
Howard Acheson said:


In most cases you don't have to thread the hole. Just drive your screw of choice. They'll cut their own threads.




Perzactly. Joe and the "thread the hardwood" was a mystery to me. If you're threading them put in a threaded insert. Just put in a darn screw and be done with it if you even need to do that.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#28
Not a mystery. I just happen to use a tap to thread the hole by chucking it in the DP then turning the chuck in by hand to keep the threads straight . One of the OP's requirements

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#29
That would make a good magazine article. Pull out and breakage testing brass and steel machine screws and wood screws installed different ways.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


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#30
there have been some ancillary discussions in the rags about the subject over the yrs

In this particular case all one is doing is leveling the insert; there is not a lot of pressure on the plate itself and there is plenty of threads to take any impacts that may introduced.

that is why there is no need for extra parts added here

BTW I have tried just threading the hole with a screw a time or two and found the results to be ok but more of a pain than it is worth.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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