Sharpening Overkill?

[EricU]

At one time, I wanted to get some of the chisels that Krenov used, that was back before we had so many good choices. Some artisan in California made them, don't remember now. For sure, he wasn't screwing around with his tools.

[Timberwolf]

Quote:

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this is why I think the quality of the tool steel may be more important than how sharp it is.

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The "sharpest" edge is always one that's ground at the lowest possible angle...but how long that edge will remain "sharp" depends on how long it will cut efficiently before the edge chips or folds over...and that depends on the steel..and what is being cut.

I love a "really" keen edge, but life is a trade off...and most of the time I have to "settle" for a relatively "sharp" edge ground to a higher angle in order for it to last a while without it becoming too dull...you can't chop much wood with a straight razor....

[Cliff Ober]

overland said:

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I'm sorry, but what's the "CBN/DMT/Spyderco process"?

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Sorry for the acronyms; I was in a hurry...

CBN - Cubic Boron Nitride grind wheel for a good hollow grind. No wheel dressing necessary and minimal grinding mess left behind.

DMT - Diamond hones here They have a range of grits just like water stones, but no water mess and need no dressing.

Spyderco - ultra fine ceramic hones here ; ditto the DMT benefits.

Cliff

[Ron Brese]

There are actually two sides to this.

Yes you can spend way too much time trying to get an edge a small degree sharper when you could have been working.

On the other hand sometimes just a few more minutes bringing the edge up to a higher level of keen can help you work more efficiently and extend the time between sharpenings. It may also save you some time toward the end of your project. More refined surfaces equal less sanding.

This is effected a great deal by how well you've developed your technique. A proven sharpening routine that works consistently probably saves more time than anything.



Ron

[Axehandle]

I tend to think everyone overthinks and overdoes sharpening. Krenov probably thought so too. That does not mean he did not think it important.

[RLMillard]

HomerLee,

I didn't read the article, but I agree there are some who get carried away. I remember reading an article in FWW in the mid 80's where a carver said " get paid to carve, not sharpen tools".
Another thing that I see, is the expense people go to, to get a sharp edge; expensive stones, honing jigs etc. My set up cost around $50. Like Krenov my oil stone is 35 years old and other than a couple of abrasive scrubbings to clean the surface, I've done nothing to it.

Rob Millard
www.americanfederalperiod.com

[Herebrooks]

This posting and the replies are a good example of why "Sharpening" is such a wild and varied subject. The proof is always in the cut, how you get there is personal.
Bill

[Bibliophile 13]

I resharpen my plane irons all the time, but my vintage chisels (mostly Witherbys) rarely see a stone. I just keep stropping them. And I'm using them on both hard softwoods like SYP and pretty hard hardwoods like pecan. I strop as soon as they lose their original keenness, and I can go several stroppings before I have to take the edges back to the stones. For chisels, I still like this regular old carbon steel better than the newer, harder tool steels.

[Wilbur Pan]

I think that for a lot of woodworkers, sharpening overkill is really “any method of sharpening that’s different than mine”.

[handi]

I have always believed that all the attention paid to sharpening is overkill.

A chisel that you can shave with is good for bragging rights, but the reality is that after the first chop of a mortise shoulder, all the extra effort is wasted.

I keep my blades sharp enough to cut clean and hone regularly while working. That has always been enough.

Ralph