Second Project With Quilted Maple & Ding Repair
#11
Awhile back I purchased 50+ bd. ft. of figured maple at an estate sale. This is the second thing I've made, first was a mirror frame. I was going to veneer the front of the drawers but decided it wasn't worth the trouble so the inside of the drawer is purdy too. All but the drawer fronts are cherry, also garage sale stuff.

Incidentally, the bevel up Veritas planes worked great on surfacing the maple.

I dented the *****-bead on left edge of upper drawer opening after finishing was done and was sick about it. Got out the furniture repair shellac sticks and found the method easy to use on my first try after watching a how-to video on U-Tube. I have had the kit for five years without using it. I was afraid it would be difficult but it was ridiculously easy. If you haven't tried this be sure you get some burn-in balm to use with it. LOML could not find the repair!



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#12
Nice work. Glad the repair came out well. I usually have an assortment of dings both before and after applying the finish. Can you post a link to the YouTube video, i saw a couple , not sure which one you liked
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#13
Very nice.
Did you make the pulls?

Eric.
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#14
Here is the video I watched. Its as easy as seen in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZSWOtrX0f4
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#15
Made the pulls on my lathe. The only things I have made on it are drawer pulls and spindles to repair Windsor chairs. Good thing its a garage sale find too.
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#16
Thanks for the link, I had not seen that video before
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#17
Good looking maple!

"ding" --> "bench rash"
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#18
Homer

Did you consider steaming out the dent? This works extremely well in many cases.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#19
Derek Cohen said:


Homer

Did you consider steaming out the dent? This works extremely well in many cases.

Regards from Perth

Derek




Post finish, it may be more trouble because of repairs required to the finish.

But to that end, I now have an old steam iron that just lives on the shelf under the workbench. Works wonders.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#20
Derek & Rob,

I thought of steaming it out but since it was finished with a three step process I didn't want to try that. I reasoned that to get steam into the wood I would need to sand back to bare wood and then try to touch up the finish. We finish by sealing the bare wood with sanding sealer, then color with a glaze made of oil paint and Liquin (the beauty of this is if the color doesn't look right you can take a rag with mineral spirits and wipe it all off and try again as it does not penetrate the wood at all). Last step is wipe on poly.
In the past I used an iron to steam dents but found a 300 watt soldering gun much easier to use. You can concentrate the steam in a very small spot that way.
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