Handcut DT ?
#48
Building a bombe is the apex for many woodworkers. Building the curves is hard enough. Fitting the drawers with compound dovetails is another big challenge. Headache territory. Dave, this is why I would say that Peter has just stopped for a "rest" along the way 
Smile

I stick to contemporary styled furniture, which is why my bombe is svelt compared to yours, Dave.
Smile

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Unlike Dave, who builds for a living, and has the experience and skill to leapfrog over marking the angles, I am just a weekend warrior. I take time - which I have - and pleasure in marking out, and meticulously sawing and chiseling joinery. I do not care for baselines being left behind, and marking out is complete done in such a way that they can be planed away. Sometimes they are not. Spacing is deliberate as it is part of the design. Again, because I may build two large pieces each year, they carry more significance than if I were building two pieces each month.

I recall reading in one of Krevov's books that his dovetails were deliberately non-symmetrical. They were more tightly spaced at the outside, where the stresses lay. I am not sure if this is actually true about stress in a drawer, since dovetails - no matter the design - are pretty strong. At the end of the day, just make them as you see fit. Some see them as utilitarian joints, and put in just a token effort at spacing and design. Others view them as a feature, as I do, and put in more time. At the end of the day they are just one part of the piece.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#49
I deliberately cut my dovetail asymmetrically (differing spacing) if they are on a drawer front (half blinds). I space the dovetails closer together near the top and bottom of the drawer, and further apart nearer the center. Two reasons for this: 1 - corners likely to have greater stress, and 2 - I like the look. I also usually cut an odd number (3,5,7) dovetails on each corner for the aesthetics of symmetry above/below the center of drawer height. There is no standard that I know of for this, but this is what I was taught at woodworking school. College of the Redwoods Fine Woodworking School.
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#50
I am not a fan of contemporary furniture, but that is pretty bad azz Derek. I like......
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#51
Thanks Steve. 

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#52
I was redoing some Shaker style built in cupboards with drawers, wanted to use DT's for them.  I had never done any before, no bench but did have saw horses.  I practiced on scrap wood using a pull saw from Lowe's.  The ones in the back are widely spaced, more even in the front.  I have a cover board in front to help alignment, ie, not half blind.  Are these "Derek Quality"?  Not at all, but not bad for a rookie.  After 14 years of daily use, no problems.  I found that even bad DT's are really strong.   Good luck..
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#53
(02-18-2017, 06:58 PM)Aram Wrote: I haven't, but there's a detailed article in PWW #203, April 2013, starting on page 32.

Aram,

Thanks a bunch, I reviewed and it looks like a very helpful article.

honda
Yes
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#54
For drawers, I eyeball them.

For a carcase I shoot for symmetry.
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