The 4 pin trailer plug
#11
on my truck needs a little cleaning, I guess. I plugged the trailer in and didn't have brake lights, but did have running (parking) lights. I thin plugged the trailer into my 7 pin connector (my truck has both) with an adapter and everything worked fine. If I get a .17 caliber brass brush would I be able to clean the pin sockets with that? Is there something that works better? What about putting some die-electric grease in there once I get it cleaned? In years past I've used a small piece of emery cloth to clean those sockets, but it was always a hit and miss proposition.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#12
small brush will work fine. I keep my harness inside my van. Only problem I have is with corrosion on the trailer. Just clean the contacts with a small wire brush.

Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
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#13
When a terminal corrodes you loose metal off the surface. Further sanding is not a help. You should replace the connection/connections as required and seal them with a dielectric grease and maintain them until they are no longer serviceable. Trailer connections are wear items. After a period they require replacement.
Any free advice given is worth double price paid.
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#14
Abandon the 4 pin and stay with the adapter...much easier to plug in each time. When I rewired mine, I didn't even put a 4 pin on. Only one trailer has a 4 pin, so the adapter just stays on that. I'd probably buy another adapter if I had a second trailer with a 4 pin (or just hard wire it to a 7 pin plug?)
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#15
Something everybody needs to know if they pull a trailer and had problems with he lights. . Always check your ground first. Then, double check your ground. After that, check your ground one more time... than start trouble shooting.
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#16
Dip the brass .17 brush in alcohol and clean the socket. If their is a white residue on the brush you need to ream the socket with the alcohol laden brush many times. When brush no longer has white residue your done.Should work then.
Can't comment on the grease,don't know.

mike
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#17
mike4244 said:


Can't comment on the grease,don't know.

mike




Silicone dielectric compound - local auto parts place will have it.
“How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard.”

- Winnie the Pooh, as relayed through Author A. A. Milne
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#18
Snipe Hunter said:


Something everybody needs to know if they pull a trailer and had problems with he lights. . Always check your ground first. Then, double check your ground. After that, check your ground one more time... than start trouble shooting.




+1

Or, give it a reality check along these lines:

Quote:

Back in 1952, a guy by the name of Milo Psinsky hooked up a trailer to his car, and all the trailer lights worked. Milo was briefly considered for sainthood, but alas, sainthood required two miracles instead of just one.




The rest of the story is here. Probably won't get you out of a ticket, but might entertain the officer.
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#19
Anak said:


[blockquote]Snipe Hunter said:


Something everybody needs to know if they pull a trailer and had problems with he lights. . Always check your ground first. Then, double check your ground. After that, check your ground one more time... than start trouble shooting.




+1






[/blockquote]

Guys, I mentioned my running lights worked fine....doesn't that mean I have a proper ground? BTW, I've read some of McManus' stuff...he's pretty funny. Good read.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#20
no

I bought a boat and trailer up in Connecticut. Lights worked, brake lights and signals did not work. I drove all the way back to Maryland and everything worked fine as soon as I replaced the ground lug.

99% of the time, it's s ground problem. Maybe even more than that.
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