Insect protection
#11
Right now my pecan slabs are stickered on my trailer, however, I will have to move them from the trailer to the ground. Is there anything I should use on the ground and/or the wood to keep insects out the lumber. I will have it off the ground and under an open shed

Thank you,
Herb
I'm supposed to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder for me to find one now.
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#12


I would probably throw some landscape fabric down first, then diatomaceous earth
“How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard.”

- Winnie the Pooh, as relayed through Author A. A. Milne
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#13
Herb said:


Right now my pecan slabs are stickered on my trailer, however, I will have to move them from the trailer to the ground. Is there anything I should use on the ground and/or the wood to keep insects out the lumber. I will have it off the ground and under an open shed

Thank you,




Spray the lumber, each board on both sides, with Timbor, Boracare or a similar product (you can actually make your own). Pecan/Hickory is very susceptible to PPB's. Being off the ground and underneath a shed, while good, will not prevent infestation.
If I had 8 hours to cut down a tree, I'd do it in 15 minutes with a chainsaw and drink beer the other 7:45 hrs.
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#14
I start by treating a wide berth around the wood stack with Kerosene, or diesel fuel. It does a ground kill of vegetation much better than this kind of stuff Tree huggers will do the ugly dance, but at the end of the day it really isn't any more harmful than the usual suspects. You don't need saturation, just fine overspray.

Once your ground is clear I go the HF and buy one of their big honking tarps to put on the killed ground. After that I get plain Jane cinder blocks, and stage a small lift area, onto which I do a crossing grid of treated boards to lay the wood across. If wet always sticker it with exactly sized stickers, not some odds and ends Orphans. Lay the wood on carefully with ends even, and sides square. Cover with a sheet metal topper that has a little overhang, but you want it open so air can circulate.

I'll add if it were my Hickory, while at HF I would get several of these



Below wood stack, and over the treated cross pieces I would lay these out so that when pulled tight you are fairly well compressing, and binding the load together. Hickory has a tendency to dry a bit wild and crooked as it looses moisture, If you can keep it corralled a bit it tends to wander less. Otherwise if it all looks like a dogs hind leg, you may have the largest pile of BBQ wood in the neighborhood
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#15
cinder blocks as a foundation to raise the stack up.

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#16
Yeah, off the ground is half the battle.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#17
Steve N said:


Yeah, off the ground is half the battle.




LEVEL means you don't have permanently curved lumber.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr117.pdf
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#18
Keep it as far up off the ground as possible. Pecan is a great hardwood, but it is very susceptible to both insects and rot. Moisture is the enemy, so keep it off the ground and under a shelter. You can treat it with borax, too, to keep the bugs away.
Steve S.
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#19
MichaelMouse said:


[blockquote]Steve N said:


Yeah, off the ground is half the battle.




LEVEL means you don't have permanently curved lumber.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr117.pdf


[/blockquote]

No kidding Mikey, are you sure? I put all of the words below in my initial description. Of course if I am going to that trouble I wouldn't even think to lay it out level. Apparently where you live the word stage has no meaning. For me it means a build up, and that is to make it flat and level. Otherwise why would I bother to mention to do the stack with stickers of exactly the same size, and then to lay the ends even, and the sides square. Yeah all because I meant you to build a reckless stack, which of course wouldn't be level.


Previously in this thread I typed.....

"I get plain Jane cinder blocks, and stage a small lift area, onto which I do a crossing grid of treated boards to lay the wood across. If wet always sticker it with exactly sized stickers, not some odds and ends Orphans. Lay the wood on carefully with ends even, and sides square. Cover with a sheet metal topper that has a little overhang, but you want it open so air can circulate."

Herb wasn't asking for assistance in building the stack, he just asked about ground contact. I think if Herb needed help with the stack he would have asked. I just added the brief extra if a noob was reading.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#20
The word "level" occurs where? Get over yourself.

As the pdf indicates, it is extremely important to get the footings in the same plane. As to "the battle", the first layer off the ground may suffer from moisture if circulation is poor, but ALL layers will suffer from a non-planar base.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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