Taking Down A Tree
#11
So this tree got blown part way over last October. It was leaning on another one and we weren't in the house yet so I figured there was no rush. My wife just texted me this picture and it has fallen some more. I'm guessing its 50' tall and 18"-20" diameter at the base.



I can get a tractor (or two) to help. I'm planning to cut the trunk off the root ball then get a chain on the cut end and drag it down with the tractor(s). Is it going to be as simple as cut a wedge on the bottom side of the trunk then start cutting from the top?

I suppose I could climb up the log and start cutting away the top of the tree but for obvious reasons don't want to.
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#12
That was the reverse of how I would do it: the wedge would be cut out of the top, and then I'd cut from the bottom. I think your way will get the bar pinched in the truck. After you separate the ball, I'd guess it could be pulled away from the snag with a tractor or 4 wheel drive truck.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#13
You've got some weird forces going at the bottom. As your cutting the log is going to try dropping to the ground, that will cause binding on the top side. The root ball may try to stand up and back into the hole, which is going to cause binding on the bottom.


I don't have any advice other than that is a big somebeach and I might think about talking to a pro to at least get it freed up.
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


Nah...I like you, young feller...You remind me of my son... Timberwolf 03/27/12

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#14
That kind of tree situation is called a Widow Maker by pro's. Reason? You never know which way that trunk will go when it is cut free.

Safest way to start is to be above the tree and start at the top. That means renting/borrowing an aerial device with a 20' or so upper arm to put yourself at least that far away from the tree. Positio90n the lift so there is a tree between you and the tree you are cutting for extra safety.

You want to cut short sections off until you get to the part resting on the other tree(s). Then determine which is safer, cutting off the tilting tree section or the part of the standing tree holding the other.
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#15
NO!

Like Mark said...you can get your saw pinched ( and bar bent) cutting from either side.

That log WILL move when you get the top off...it is best you are not on it when it does.

A few good options:
Hire it. With no clean-up that is probably cheaper than renting a lift.

Leave it alone. A few more storms and it will be down/a lot safer to deal with.

Cut it such that you can pull it sideways. Pictures are worth 1000 words, but I'll try this in less than 100: bore the saw horizontally into the middle of the trunk and cut out a little over 1/3 of the diameter. Move up the log about 4-6" and make a cut from the top that bypasses the plane of the 1st cut by an inch or so. Do the same on the bottom just below the top cut. That wood is strong along the grain but weak across the grain. It should stay in the same spot until you wrap a chain around it and pull sideways (perpendicular to the log). When it snaps you should have a tongue and groove.
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#16
I was hoping you'd chime in. I understand what you are saying and see why it needs to be done that way. The only issue with pulling is going to be whether what's at the top is stronger or weaker than the tree it's leaning on.

It's not a real danger unless somebody is walking under it if it comes down, and it's far enough away from the house that I'm not too worried about that. I'm going to put something around the rootbal so that kids and dogs stay out from under it.

I think I'm going to see if I can hire done at least getting it down. I can clean it up myself.
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#17
I would approach it like Joseph stated.

It is not as simple as just cutting thru the trunk either from top or bottom since its hung up still, it may want to roll or buck. And then the root ball adds a whole different set of forces.

Personally, I am the crazy one who cuts part of the tree it's hung up on first about a third of the way which I find helps. Besides that one will generally be marked up heavily from pulling the fallen tree.

Still, get prices from a pro first.
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#18
I'm thinking a dozer and a cable and drag it to the ground first then start cutting it up. That way there is no one hacking at it with a saw brute force wins most every time.
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#19
Baah, I've cleaned up over a thousand blow downs and they are nasty, dangerous and can kill, but that just makes them exciting.

Me, I would tie it off chains of cable about 2-3' from where I will be making my cut and I would tie it off to the tree shown in the background which is about 20-30' away. Chains would work but in my case I had a winch on my tractor that made it real simple. You want to tie it so there is less to no chance of it kicking towards you.

Once tied I would cut 1/3 down from the top, and then up from the bottom. I would be sure to put some wedges in on the bottom cut to make sure the root ball does not have enough pull to close the bottom cut and pinch the blade. Cut as close to the ball and ground as possible so when the cut is through, the log only has a few inches to drop (watch those toes!).

Once cut off I would drag it with a 4WD or use a come-a-long to pull the trunk sideways and away from the trees it is hung on. I will drop to the ground pretty easily. The problem is going to be the amount the tree weighs. At the size it appears it is going to take some oomph to move it.
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#20
Curlycherry said:


Baah, I've cleaned up over a thousand blow downs and they are nasty, dangerous and can kill, but that just makes them exciting.
Me, I would tie it off chains of cable about 2-3' from where I will be making my cut and I would tie it off to the tree shown in the background which is about 20-30' away. Chains would work but in my case I had a winch on my tractor that made it real simple. You want to tie it so there is less to no chance of it kicking towards you.

Once tied I would cut 1/3 down from the top, and then up from the bottom. I would be sure to put some wedges in on the bottom cut to make sure the root ball does not have enough pull to close the bottom cut and pinch the blade. Cut as close to the ball and ground as possible so when the cut is through, the log only has a few inches to drop (watch those toes!).

Once cut off I would drag it with a 4WD or use a come-a-long to pull the trunk sideways and away from the trees it is hung on. I will drop to the ground pretty easily. The problem is going to be the amount the tree weighs. At the size it appears it is going to take some oomph to move it.


:

I'm with you Curly, but I don't want to tell someone I do not know to take those chances.

When I have this happen, it's in the woods and I don't have room to hook on and pull it, so I either cut the tree it's hung up on and run fast. Or like you stated, cut a third thru the top then up from the bottom. But I know my ability with a saw, and how stupid I can be and usually survive!
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