Boosting Dust Collector Power
#11
I've been thinking about doing this, and wondered what you all thought. I have a PennState Tempest Cyclone, 240v, 2 or 3hp. My shop is 40' long. I finally got it installed. My main plenum is about 55' long. It ends with 4" but goes to 6" and then necks down to 5" to go into the Cyclone. I used all HVAC fittings (galvanized).
My PM66 is at the end. It pulls okay, but not as well as I wanted. I have my Dad's old Belsaw dust collector. It has a 1/2hp motor attached to a heavy aluminum casting. This sits on a cardboard barrel. A large filter bag attaches to the casting as well. It is a very poor design. The filter bag and barrel split the dust.
Yesterday I fastened the hose from my PM66 to the Belsaw intake and removed the filter bag from the exhaust of the Belsaw to the end of my dust collector system. I turned on the Belsaw. Then I turned on the Tempest. It seemed to work pretty good.
My system has a lot of leaks.
I was wondering if I am doing anything wrong doing this. I don't want to damage my Tempest.
What do you think?
RP
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#12
RPE1 said:

What do you think?



Fix the leaks.
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#13
Check the amp draw on the Tempest to see if you're overloading the motor. I seriously doubt you are since it's only a 4" pipe carrying the air, but you can check.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#14
I agree with fix the leaks first, then go from there if it isn't doing well.



Example; http://www.rcdmastics.com/products/6-mastic.html
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#15
Since it's already together, I recommend you get some aluminum tape and tape all your joints; the aluminum is good because you can mold it to the joints for a good seal.

Giving the system a boost with the smaller dust collector at the tool won't hurt anything.
You should have blast gates at all branches and keep them closed when not in use

You say you reduce to 5" to get into the collector? The tempest says it has a 7" inlet. Why are you reducing?
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#16
fix the leaks, you can lose quite a bit of air flow with leaks.


gate off all your tools so you can direct the airflow to just the tool you're using.

then see what kind of suction you get at your saw.

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#17
To echo, seal the leaks. Open the inlet to 6" or more. Open the port on the saw to something larger. Add an overhead guard with DC and run hose to that. And check the current draw of the DC against the motor's nameplate rating. And watch that mastic; it's tenacious and if you make a mess, it's there.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#18
My tempest is 5". I've had it for 10 years.
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#19
Great minds apparently think alike. My son has a 30' run of 4" from a
HarborFreight 2hp dust collector. Worked wonderfully for the CMS station 8 feet along, but marginally for the small belt sander, lathe and bandsaw at the end. Had a small portable 1hp HF DC, we stuck it in line at the end, and WOW. the end station now works wonderfully. You have to pay attention and close/open the right blast gates, but our experience confirms the effectiveness of inline augmentation of a long duct line. Ray
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#20
RPE1 said:


My tempest is 5". I've had it for 10 years.




You should try to stay with a 5" trunk- necking down will create a turbulence at the reduction fitting.
If you used regular HVAC snap lock pipe, you should probably tape the snap seams also. And try to make sure the pipe stays round.
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