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I'm remodeling a bathroom and the dry-stack/vent pipe interferes with the sheetrock behind the toilet. It's bulging the sheetrock making it touch the back of the toilet tank. The lid to the tank won't even seat right on the toilet.
I can live with the slight bulge but I can't live with it touching the toilet tank. I see lots of offset flange adapters but nothing in the 1/2" range.
It is on a 2nd floor and I can pull up the flooring but I'd rather not.
Any ideas?
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More than 1/2" won't work?
Instead of a wax seal, maybe one of the rubber gaskets will give you enough play to get the tank lid on.
Twinn
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Move the pipe in the wall. Seriously try seeing if you can move the stack pipe back. Take the drywall off where the stack is and see if it can be pushed back. Often the stuff is flexible enough that it can be shoved/pushed/pulled to a better location. I would start with that. Drywall patching is about your cheapest option.
Oh, and once moved, foam works fantastic for holding it rock solid and keeping it from ever moving again.
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I can't move the pipe in the wall, there is a bathroom on the other side of it and all the drains and vents tie in right there. The drain/ dry/stack runs from the basement, out the roof top.
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theeviltwinn said:
More than 1/2" won't work?
Instead of a wax seal, maybe one of the rubber gaskets will give you enough play to get the tank lid on.
I could go further than an inch but that's getting pretty far from the wall.
The plan now is to use a, offset flange and rotate it a bit to get the 1/2" but to install them, you need to cut out the old flange at the union and install the new flange. The ply floor will have to be cut but I'd rather not do that. That's why I'm looking for an alternative. If I could find a flange with 1/2" offset, I would only have to cut the floor 1/2" in front of the old hole and it wouldn't effect the toilet mounting. The flanges I have found will need to be rotated and i'll have a gap on one side and I think I'll have to fix the subfloor there in order to get the screws into the ply. I may be wrong though, I've never had to do this before.
Twinn
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Buy a new toilet with a 10" rough instead of a 12" rough?
It looks like most flanges are 1 1/2"" offset, but I've seen a low as 1", though it needs a non-flanged 4" connection.
Why not go with a 1 1/2" flange. Then, you can shim out the wall to get rid of the bulge too.
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Go through the floor or the ceiling. Cut the horizontal and put a Fernco in. Easy 1/2" in a 3 or 4 Fernco.
Blackhat
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you know I just had something similar with a bathtub shoe. I bought a new shoe online and used a coupler but fernco would have been easier. I even considered using fernco I might go that direction on the next one
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blackhat said:
Go through the floor or the ceiling. Cut the horizontal and put a Fernco in. Easy 1/2" in a 3 or 4 Fernco.
So how do I move the toilet using a fernco? The mounting holes in the flange are still in the same place, right?
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Mr_Mike said:
Buy a new toilet with a 10" rough instead of a 12" rough?
It looks like most flanges are 1 1/2"" offset, but I've seen a low as 1", though it needs a non-flanged 4" connection.
Why not go with a 1 1/2" flange. Then, you can shim out the wall to get rid of the bulge too.
Wholie crap, that makes sense. Just point the offset to the back wall. Now I have to make sure I can get the toilet I want with the 10"rough-in.
