Glass on wood question.
#21
I am sitting at a desk with glass directly on the wood for 40+ years with no adverse effects. I have 4 other pieces with glass directly on the wood. Some had plastic cushions when installed but have been on bare wood several years. All pieces have an oil-varnish finish.
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#22
Not trying to highjack the post but since we are talking glass on woodworking. I am working on a coffee table boat and need to install glass on it. It has no pacific areas to lay glass on it. I was reviewing glass standoffs, mirror supports, or sign standoffs if the glass was ordered with holes in it for the standoffs. These could be used as well on any desk or any standard table.

One problem I was finding was ware to get them that can easily installed in wood.
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#23
Another vote with the "glass doesn't affect wood finishes" crowd. I have a coffee table that has beveled glass inset into the top. The glass rests on a rabbet about 3/4" wide which was finished with water base varnish about 20 years ago when I finished making the table. I just checked the glass and table. Glass not stuck to wood and finish still perfect. Ken
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#24
Bill Holt said:


True statement; a sheet of glass should not have long term contact with finished wood.

I have seen glass left on finished surfaces and after a period of time it "appears" the finish has bonded to the glass. I don't know if it actually has, but, the finish and or wood need to breath. Most places that sell glass also sell the clear plastic disk spacers (about the size of a nickel).

The rule may not date back to the Egyptians, but I will not try to prove it wrong.




When I was a picture framer I would see photographs bond to the glass. This only happened with the newer photos that had a plastic coating on the top surface. I've tried soaking it in warm water overnight to no avail.

When I framed a photograph I would either use a mat board to create an air space or I would spray the photo with fixative (made from casein, I believe).

I believe that glass will do the same with many wood finishes finishes.

I know that the silicone Bump-ons will bond to fully cured finishes. I have a glass top that is resting on a poly finished surface. I cannot lift the glass top off and I think it might crack if I try prying it off. They make small felt self stick discs and I would try those.
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#25
fall said:


Not trying to highjack the post but since we are talking glass on woodworking. I am working on a coffee table boat and need to install glass on it. It has no pacific areas to lay glass on it. I was reviewing glass standoffs, mirror supports, or sign standoffs if the glass was ordered with holes in it for the standoffs. These could be used as well on any desk or any standard table.

One problem I was finding was ware to get them that can easily installed in wood.




This is where we used to get ours. It's just 1 place. A hanger bolt is used to attach the standoff to wood. Email me with any questions.

http://www.standoffsystems.com/home.php
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#26
Not directly about glass on wood. When you have the glass cut ask for the edges to be 'polished¹'. This removes the sharp edge and reduces the chances of the glass cracking or chipping.

I have 3 end tables two had glass on them for about 11 years. The finish on the two that had glass is badly deteriorated and the wood is in worse shape than that of the table that did not have glass. However; I have a book case that has glass on a surface finished with a waterborne (Poly-Ox) for 5 years and no sign of problems, this leads me to believe that it is a function of the finish.

BTW the effect is the same with plexiglass.

¹ Essentially like running a round over bit along it to remove the sharp edges.
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"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity." Yeats
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#27
Cooler said:


[blockquote]Bill Holt said:


True statement; a sheet of glass should not have long term contact with finished wood.

I have seen glass left on finished surfaces and after a period of time it "appears" the finish has bonded to the glass. I don't know if it actually has, but, the finish and or wood need to breath. Most places that sell glass also sell the clear plastic disk spacers (about the size of a nickel).

The rule may not date back to the Egyptians, but I will not try to prove it wrong.




When I was a picture framer I would see photographs bond to the glass. This only happened with the newer photos that had a plastic coating on the top surface. I've tried soaking it in warm water overnight to no avail.

When I framed a photograph I would either use a mat board to create an air space or I would spray the photo with fixative (made from casein, I believe).

I believe that glass will do the same with many wood finishes finishes.

I know that the silicone Bump-ons will bond to fully cured finishes. I have a glass top that is resting on a poly finished surface. I cannot lift the glass top off and I think it might crack if I try prying it off. They make small felt self stick discs and I would try those.


[/blockquote]

Maybe it depends on what type of finish is on the wood. As I said before I have had glass sitting on wood for over 15 years and it never stuck or marred the surface. Others seem to have had the same experience. Ken
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#28
But if spacers are used under the glass, obviously, there is nothing to support the center of the glass. If someone were to be careless enough to lean on it, or place something heavy in the center, wouldn't that make the glass prone to breakage?
Definition of coplaner: It's the guy on the outfeed side of a planer handing the stock back to the guy on the infeed side.
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#29
just lil. Glass does cause a lot of problems when placed directly on the wood. Mainly coffee tables, end tables, vanities, even some folks dining tables. The big problem is people no longer know about coasters. The idiots let glasses sweat or spill a little and it runs under the glass and does not get cleaned up. Just to much trouble to lift the glass and clean or they will do it later. On dining tables folks will set hot pans on the glass thinking it will protect the wood and it sweats it underneath the glass and that destroys the finish. Then there is some where no spills, no sweating just the humidity in the air will cause the glass to stick again messing up the finish. Now you people who have had no problems with glass you are in the very rare minority. The rubber bumpers do help, mainly because people lean on the glass or drop something on the table and break the glass doing away with the problem. I love people to use glass it keeps refinishing work coming in.
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#30
museumguy said:


[blockquote]fall said:


Not trying to highjack the post but since we are talking glass on woodworking. I am working on a coffee table boat and need to install glass on it. It has no pacific areas to lay glass on it. I was reviewing glass standoffs, mirror supports, or sign standoffs if the glass was ordered with holes in it for the standoffs. These could be used as well on any desk or any standard table.

One problem I was finding was ware to get them that can easily installed in wood.




This is where we used to get ours. It's just 1 place. A hanger bolt is used to attach the standoff to wood. Email me with any questions.

http://www.standoffsystems.com/home.php


[/blockquote]


Garry Thanks for the tip. I will review.
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