fence - thoughts on this design
#11
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What do you all think about the structural integrity of a design like this?

What I do like about it is that the panels are designed to be built in the shop and later installed on-site
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#12
I built a fence like this. It was plenty sturdy. I even cased out the existing ugly 4x4.s with 1x stock to make 6x6's. Some of the 4x4's had a slight lean so I just snapped a plum line and sawed it plumb before slipping the covering over it.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#13
Splinter Puller said:


I built a fence like this. It was plenty sturdy. I even cased out the existing ugly 4x4.s with 1x stock to make 6x6's. Some of the 4x4's had a slight lean so I just snapped a plum line and sawed it plumb before slipping the covering over it.




Yah this design encases the 4x4 posts with 1-by material to "box them in" which I like..

I'd normally think about mortising 2-by rails into the posts if building on-site.. This design looks kinda nice and fun (albeit time-consuming) to build.
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#14
The wind load will be high on those solid lower sections, but the design looks well thought out and robust to me. Sure would make a fine looking fence if you use redwood, Ipe', etc.

John
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#15
I made one similar 18 years ago. Had the lattice on the top like yours, but the panels were a shadow box design.

Either 4x4 or 6x6 posts, cannot recall which (we moved 15 years ago). I used a circular saw to cut notches (basically mortises) the rails fit into so there was more than just toe-nailing holding it together. May have been overbuilding, took a long time by myself and I was quite inexperienced.

Is still standing today, although I've not taken a close look since we moved away. Was all pressure treated SYP. No concrete on the posts, I alternated tamped gravel and tamped dirt in six inch layers in post holes 30" to 36" deep.

No gate, just a privacy fence. The neighbors then were a train wreck I didn't want to look at.

Mike
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#16
as an aside, regarding footers for the fence-posts.. I'd plan concrete for the corner and ends, but is it needed for all the posts in the field?
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#17
mound said:


as an aside, regarding footers for the fence-posts.. I'd plan concrete for the corner and ends, but is it needed for all the posts in the field?




The wind blew my 7' board on board fence over twice before I reset all the posts in concrete. Another contractor repair I had to do. Since then, it hasn't moved. As long as you are digging holes, the extra effort/expense of pouring concrete around the posts is small compared to the benefit.

John
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#18
I built a similar fence over 15 years ago (and my neighbor's as well). I used a design from Workbench magazine. It had lattice panels at the top as well. The nice thing about this type of fence is that there is no ugly back side. The workbench fence would be somewhat easier to build, I think, and would be sturdier. I don't see how panel expansion is handled in the design you show--maybe I am missing something. After building a few of the panels, I realized that there was enough variation in panels that to get perfect fits I would need to put posts and panels up one at a time. I used concrete in every hole because as John said they offer a lot of resistance to wind. I look forward to seeing pics of your finished fence. Ken

Edited to add that the fence is still there and still looks good.
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#19
That is a very attractive fence, that said it is very formal, and might not look great around every house design.

John makes a good point about wind load, which you could decrease greatly by placing your uprights on alternating sides of the run. Also makes for a more playful design, so people won't wonder if you have maids, and butlers
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#20
Hmm hadn't thought of it as "formal" - maybe that's because of the bright white paint? I don't plan to paint it if that changes that impression -it would be cedar and let to naturally age. "Formal" probably wouldn't be too appropriate in the neighborhood.

In this design the panels have splines in between each "picket" and are essentially sandwiched between two "frames" so as long as there were room for expansion I think that would be ok?

@SteveN- not sure I'm following what you mean about placing uprights on alternating sides of the run.

@Ken - do you happen to have the Workbench design still or a photo? In terms of variability in panels, I have been thinking about this. I figured if I made them all consistent (ie. shop-made, everything same dimension) then using a "spacer" of some sort, while installing the posts, I could ensure they were spaced the same as they set.
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