Inside bowl turning

[Turner52]

Both of my shoulders are worn out to the need of repacement.Doctor told me he would not recommend that at this time. Claims they do not hold up long eneough and I should wait untill I am older. Now 63. Getting so i can only work on the inside of a bowl using a gouge for about 15 minutes at a time. Any recomendations on a different way to approach this. Outside is not as bad, don't have to stretch as much. As an added insult i need to sit while turning due to sciatica. Use an adjustable height drafting chair that goes high eneough to be comfortable. Any sugestions would be appreciated.

[Angus]

a sliding headstock or dedicated bowl lathe might provide some relief

[Shop Dad]

Check videos by Robo Hippy. He uses scrapers extensively and this approach may help reduce the need to stretch. Robo Hippy, aka Reed Gray, is a member and may pop up to comment. You could also look at a lathe made for seated turning like the Robust Independence: http://www.turnrobust.com/lathe-overview/independance/

Doug

[Arlin Eastman]

Angus said:

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a sliding headstock or dedicated bowl lathe might provide some relief

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What Angus said is what helped me and that is how the Dr let me keep turning but not for my shoulder but back and neck.

The guys helped me get the Powermatic 3520b. I also got the 18" extension that comes with a Tool rest extension to raise the tools rest to the proper height and I can sit at the end and turn bowls.

I also bought the 10 foot power cord so I can shut it off or turn it on where I am.

Arlin

[theeviltwinn]

Get a captive hollowing rig like this.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...s-jamsn-hs

You can do most of the bowl sitting in a chair, then make the last finishing cuts with a gouge.

Twinn

[robo hippy]

The advantages of the short bed lathe is that you can stand up straight and turn, and you don't have to hold your arms out. Turning off the outboard end also allows you to do this. Other than that, you may just have to take longer to get things done. I had sciatica problems that vanished about 48 hours after having both hips replaced. It was really nice to be able to stand up straight again... Not sure if that is part of the cause or a possible solution for you or not.

robo hippy

[MichaelMouse]

Fifteen minutes hollows two 12" bowls 4" deep here. You're either being too tentative for a roughing task, or removing stock inefficiently.

Always more efficient, and less strain on the turner to cut versus scrape, though it requires more expertise. Start by keeping the rest as close as possible, use an overhand "off" hand to maintain the fulcrum in three dimensions, allowing the control hand to swing the nose of the tool with a 15:1 mechanical advantage. I swing in, rotate and plunge down, then rotate back to peel, whether cutting away or toward myself. The variety of cuts keeps the fatigue level from becoming a factor. My friend with no legs was able to get the swing by upper body alone when turning, so I would imagine you might as well.

Key is the mechanical advantage provided by using the tool as you would a carving tool, pulling or pushing against the fulcrum, and the presentation of the edge so it slices more than scrapes. Shear and skew angles will depend on your grind, or better yet, your grind will depend on your choice of shear and skew for where you position yourself, not some grinding jig's "ideal." I'm attempting a video upload to Photobucket now, but it's glacially slow, and often does not work even after upload. If it does, I'll add later. Otherwise, stills.

They munged it a bit, but you might get the idea.

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/d160...aj3dj6.mp4

[Turner52]

Thanks for all of the replies. I am usually quite slow and easy on my cuts. Almost always segmented or open segmented, so I take very light cuts. Not sure yet what I will do,but do appreciate the help with my options.

[MichaelMouse]

Segmented. Just truing up the pieces and slicking. I thought you were worried about volume removal. Pretty much like re-turning an oval cured blank, only more bumps per turn originally. Deep gouge to start, still swing, rotate, cut to circular. Then a broad sweep gouge to finish the interior.

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/d160...Inside.mp4

The broad sweep gouge is almost all shear, very little skew for the finishing cuts. You can see the shavings are finer than excelsior. Leaves a 220 surface behind, though I generally start at 150 so I never have to backtrack. Three grits and done on the lathe. To save your shoulders, get a setup like the flexible shaft that you can support with the toolrest, rather than yourself while sanding. No weight at all, just friction from stock removal, like the close support tools.

This is outside, inside's the same process.

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/d160...Sand-1.mp4

[Turner52]

Michael Mouse
What do you mean by flexible shaft? Not familiar with that.
Thanks