Top Coat for Kitchen Cabinet Doors

[bpatters69]

Hello All,

I am in the process of re-finishing the cabinet doors in our kitchen. So far I have sanded two doors and applied 3 coats of water based, white paint to the two doors. So far, so good as both doors look good. I am using the sprayer from Rockler. I would like to use the sprayer for the application.

Here is a link to the sprayer:

Rockler Sprayer

The next step is the top coat. I have used the Crystallac products in the past and they seemed to work well. I am not sure which one I used, here are links to the two which I would consider:

Choice 1
Choice 2

I have also read about General Finishes here on the forum and elsewhere and it looks to be a good option as well. Here is the General Finish that I would consider:

General Finishes High Performance

The Crystallac is very nice but pricey compared to the General Finishes.

Some questions:

1. Based on my set-up, would you choose Crystalac or General Finishes?
2. Would you use the sprayer or just apply the finish by hand? The doors are very simple. There are mission style. The panel is flat and the rails and stiles do not have any complex angles.
3. Any other suggestions for a top coat? I like water based as clean up is easy.

Thanks, Bill

[jteneyck]

What paint did you use. If it's KCMA rated I wouldn't feel the need to put a clear coat over it. But if you do, I would not use GF's HP Poly. It's not KCMA rated and my testing showed it is easily attacked by common ammonia cleaners that often get used in the kitchen. I would use GF's Enduro Clear Poly instead. It is just as clear as HP Poly and sprays just as well with no need to thin it in most cases. Best of all, it is KCMA rated and my testing showed it is very durable against ammonia based cleaning products.

John

And yes, I would spray it, without question.

[bpatters69]

John

Thanks for getting back to me. The paint I used is Behr Paint and Primer in one. Here is a link.

Behr Primer and Paint in One

Is this the GF product that you are recommending?

Enduro Poly at GF

Thanks, Bill

[AUswimKC]

Man, too bad you already started. I've used Ben Moore Advance to paint several furniture items in kids' rooms. Wow that stuff is awesome! Has held up like a dream.

And since you're spraying, never seen anything lay down as flat as Advance. No top coat needed.

Also liked the GF Enduro Poly. Top coated one BM Advance piece. Eventhough it states that it is perfectly clear, it does has a yellow-ish tint to it. Less yellow that other top coats I hear

[bpatters69]

Thanks for the reply.

This may be a naïve question but isn't some type of top coat a necessity? Without a top coat, the cabinets will get marked up, stained and scratched, right? I know a top coat will not stop all marks and stains but without it won't just about any stain be hard to remove? From an appearance standpoint, the top coat adds a nice finish as well vs. the duller look of paint. I am going with a Satin finish.

I was just watching a video on the GF site about Enduro. They do mention that Enduro does amber over time.

[JR1]

I agree with John. Chemical resistance is surprisingly important for kitchens. Of the current Crystalac products I would consider Poly Oxide. Yes it's a floor finish but it's also used for bars and restaurant tables. Either of these products spray much more easily then hand application.

I have not used Beahr as a couple of folks I know have had mediocre experiences with it in hard use. Definately top coat. Check Ebay and McFeeley's for Crystalac prices.

[AUswimKC]

No top coat is needed with BM Advance.

With a latex, I guess you should too coat it.

I wouldn't use a paint from one of the BORGs if they gave it to me for free. But that ship has apparently sailed. After using far superior products that cost minimally more for walls, cabinets, furniture I won't ever use them again

Honestly, I'd spend the time to take that latex junk off of the two you've done and go with something that better suits kitchen cabinets

[jteneyck]

GF sells several products under the Enduro product line. The one that is slightly amber and darkens a bit with time is EnduroVar. It's a different animal from the one I recommend and you had the link to, Enduro Clear Poly. Enduro Clear Poly is water clear, just like HP Poly. It does not yellow over time.

I don't know anything about the Behr product you used, but I am suspicious about it. I couldn't find a MSDS or PDS for it on HD's website either, or any of their products; they used to make those available. Anyway, I don't know what to tell you about topcoating it. I guess you can make up a test panel with the Behr paint, let it cure a couple of days and they spray a couple of coats of Clear Poly on it. See how it looks to you. More important, due a peel test on it. Cut some lines about 1/4" apart and 2 or 3 inches apart. Do the same at 90° to make a checkerboard. Take some packing tape and press it down firmly over the cross hatched area, let it sit about 10 minutes, and then peel it up. If any of the topcoat comes off that ain't good. If more than a little comes off, don't do it.

John

[AUswimKC]

EnduroClear is not 100% clear and will have a yellow tint. Whether it yellows over time I cannot say as I haven't done a test. But spray half of the same white item and you will see a yellowing difference

[Cooler]

I used Minwax oil based poly for black painted cabinets. They look exceptional and my experience with the finish is that it stands up very well. But I would not use it on white as it will add some amber to the finish.

I am doing the lower cabinets in black and the uppers in grey (now "greige"). I will probably use GF water based poly for the grey cabinets.