Questions for the spoon carvers

[MauleSkinner]

We had to do a bit of tree trimming this week, and I ended up with a couple of small Bradford Pear branches to try some spoon carving with.

Couple of questions...assuming I get to carving in short order, how much do they need to dry before they can be considered finished and/or usable?

Does one apply any sort of oil or finish for use in the kitchen?

Thanks

David

[Pedder]

I'm fare from bein a spooncraver, but made a few (years
ago). It is easier to shape them wile the wood is wet.

For the last finishing cut I'd let them dry after shaping, wich
is fast because they are thin.

This has worked for me on a few spoons of swedish
juniper. Not sure if that works on other woods.

BTW dou you use the inside of the treee to become
the upper side of the spoon or the lower side?

Cheers

Pedder

[eg54string]

A good soaking of flax seed oil, or similar. My son rigged up a capped 4" pvc pipe to hold the oil while the spoon soaks.

[AHill]

Green is always better than dry. Air dried will cut better than kiln dried. I made a spoon from some almond a couple of years ago. Wood was green and it shaped marvelously. There's a tendency to spit on the ends. I soaked mine in mineral oil. No issues since. I didn't rough it out and then finish it. I did it all at once. Steve (Bibliophile) will chime in soon. I consider him the forum's spoon expert.

[MichaelMouse]

MauleSkinner said:

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We had to do a bit of tree trimming this week, and I ended up with a couple of small Bradford Pear branches to try some spoon carving with.

Couple of questions...assuming I get to carving in short order, how much do they need to dry before they can be considered finished and/or usable?

They will be used in liquids and wet environments, so three/four days to surface dry. Any more a waste of time on a user. For show, not go, week or ten.

Does one apply any sort of oil or finish for use in the kitchen?

I do. Walnut oil after surface is dry, to refusal, wipe after ten minutes, and cure a week. Slows the uptake of the food colors a bit. Don't like the smell of linseed (flaxseed) or tung, though both have proponents.

Thanks

David

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[Bibliophile 13]

If you're lap-carving with a hook knife and a straight knife, by all means shape them while green. You can keep them from drying out for a bit by putting them in a plastic bag.

You'll want to split them, of course, and remove the pith before carving.

Once you've shaped the spoon, you can let it rest a few days to let the surface dry before finishing, but there's nothing inherently dangerous about finishing them immediately, letting the finish cure, and putting them right to work in the kitchen.

If you plan to carve them at the bench with a gouge and spokeshave, you can rough the spoons out green, but you'll want to leave them sit a couple days until the surface is dry to the touch before you do a final shaping/scraping/sanding. Scrapers and sandpaper don't like wet wood.

[Timberwolf]

Quote:

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It is easier to shape them wile the wood is wet.

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And carving will be easier on dry wood if you spray it first with a 1/3 rubbing alcohol and 2/3 water..

[eg54string]

Thanks for that tip. We have much more birch and pear and maple and hickory and apricot, etc, laying around turning to stone, than we have time to work it.

Eric

[MauleSkinner]

Thanks for the replies...that helps a lot.

David