Repairing cedar shake siding?

[woodworkersteve]

A new neighbor has asked me to help repair cedar shake(?) siding that has been damaged by their dogs. First admission - he says he asked me because I have tools and do woodworking 2nd admission, is that I've never done this before. I'm glad to help out a neighbor, and it looks like I need to replace approximately 4 courses from the bottom up. Do I need to do two courses to start at the bottom? I've googled repairing cedar but am looking for advice from folks that have done this before. The OSB sheathing is soaked from the bottom edge (closest to the ground) up approximately 3". I'm going to assume that the OSB needs to be dry before starting?
All advice will be greatly appreciated.
Steve

[KC]

Is there a reason you feel obligated to do it? <shrug>

[theeviltwinn]

It isn't hard. Most "How To" books will tell you how. Or just copy what was already there.

Make sure the OSB is solid and not spongy. It may be worth while to cut it out and replace it while the wall is open.

Twinn

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Yes check the condition of the underlayment. If it needs replacing now is the best time. Cover with some felt paper. Yes you need a starter course on the bottom layer. They usually use rough shingles for this. Save the premium ones for the top layers. They are not cheap. Use good quality galvanized nails. Remember the spacing and chalk lines help. It is fairly easy job.

[woodworkersteve]

Thanks for the replies. I didn't think it will be too difficult, but I wanted feedback from those that have done it before. As to why I'm helping, because I think I should and I get to do something I haven't done before. Thanks, Steve

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

You know you never really did give us a lot of info. Are these planks or are they individual shingles??? Are you leaving these unstained or are you staining or painting?? If so you should prime all sides before installing. Did the original siding have a matrix system installed underneath them so to let air get to dry them all around. (usually used on natural cedar siding) Need to replace if that be the case.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[woodworkersteve]

These are individual shingles and they will be painted when done. There is no matrix underneath them. As far as I can see, there is OSB sheathing with Tyvek type of house wrap over it, but it doesn't reach to the end of the sheathing. This was an addition built by the previous owner. These cedar shingles were attached by staples, but as I understand it, I should only use galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. Does this additional input help? I've not done this before, so I'm taking any advice. I also told the neighbor that I am not a professional, so take my assistance for what it costs

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

woodworkersteve said:

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These are individual shingles and they will be painted when done. There is no matrix underneath them. As far as I can see, there is OSB sheathing with Tyvek type of house wrap over it, but it doesn't reach to the end of the sheathing. This was an addition built by the previous owner. These cedar shingles were attached by staples, but as I understand it, I should only use galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. Does this additional input help? I've not done this before, so I'm taking any advice. I also told the neighbor that I am not a professional, so take my assistance for what it costs

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If painted then make sure the back side and sides are primed also. As said galvanized or stainless nails or staples. Make sure the sheeting is waterproof. Good luck and after a couple rows you will be a pro.

[MstrCarpenter]

Steve, I don't think you will have any problem installing the shingles. The challenge is removing the existing shingles that are fastened behind the courses you plan to keep. When I have time, I grind a hacksaw blade to fit my Sawzall, a long thin blade is required. You need to cut both in front and behind of the courses you're taking out; essentially cutting the fasteners into three pieces. After the staples are cut, I've found that tapping channel lock pliers downward to be the best way to pull the shingles out.

If the shingles were nailed vs. stapled, as some purists insist, then you could work them out, and pull the nails with a shingle spade. I've tried this tool many time on wood shingles but it never seems to work as well as it does with slate shingles.

Now for the "cheat". When, for whatever reason(s) neither of the above options is appropriate, slide aluminum flashing directly behind the course to remain, then cut the lower shingles off at the bottom of that course. Now drive the remaining portions up behind the remaining course 3/4" or so, apply a generous bead of caulk, and install the remaining course(s) cut to the appropriate length.

Whichever method you use, there will be the question of what fasteners to use for that last (or top) course. All the other fasteners will be covered with a subsequent course, and nail heads, even if painted, will always stand out on shingles. For this course I almost always revert to my finish nail gun. They're small enough to add a few extra, and thin enough to bend so I don't have to worry about the shingles splitting due to expansion/contraction.

[theeviltwinn]

A multitool works great for cutting the blind nails.

Twinn