What Brush for Shelac
#11
I would like to use shelac for finishing a bit more.
From jewelry boxes to book cases like in my current thread in woodworking.
I'm going to Lee Valley Ottawa this weekend and would like to buy something there.
Badger hair or ox hair but they are expensive so I figure I will ask here for some good advice.

I don't have spray equipment and don't plan on it for a while, so, hopefully a good brush will help.
I generally get a very uneven coat from cheap brushes and wonder if a better brush will help.

Thanks
For The Love Of Wood
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#12
An artist brush made with Taklon (a type of nylon) bristle works very well with shellac. Brushes can be had in many different shapes and sizes. I have a 2", and a 1" wide "standard" shape and one "filbert mop" that is maybe 3/4" wide. The curved shape of the filbert mop is good around edges so you don't accidentally form a bead on the adjacent corner.

The brushes are relatively inexpensive but will last quite a while if you take care to rinse them out. I rinse them in alcohol and then just store them bristles pointing up. They harden from the residual shellac. When time to use again, I have to soak them for a few minutes in alcohol.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#13
Brushes not really required when you're using DNA. Meth/eth/yl alcohol evaporates pretty fast, never seems a wet edge on anything longer than a foot.

Badger is a good choice, but get some isopropyl (slower) alcohol to work it. Not the stuff at the drug store, dehydrated chemical stuff. That way you can work a stroke over an edge still wet. Did it for a while, then went back to the old undershirt and a touch of grapeseed oil.

Ammonia makes a cleaner brush than solvent soaks.

https://www.shellac.net/OmegaBrushes.html

https://www.shellac.net/faq.html
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#14
I started with a mid grade china bristle brush that I found in a arts supply store. It was a $13 brush that was better then the cheap throw away ones. I still have the brush after 10 years and it still works fine. I use a taklon for moldings and smaller parts. I also have a badger (probable fake badger) that I got for varnishes. I tried it with shellac and it works great. For larger surfaces, I like a brush that will hold a lot of product so I can get brush across in to directions 2-3 times.

Brushing technique is very important to prevent fat edge. Everyone is always worried about open time with brushing shellac, but I have never fond that to be a problem. Its that fat edge that will give you fits.

RLMillard has several you tube videos that I found most helpful on shellac finishes.
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#15
Thus far in my limited use of shellac as a final finish, I've found a pad to be very easy - no edge problems.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#16
I thin with DNA and use a Bounty paper towel. Sacrilege.
Carolyn

Trip Blog for Twelve Countries:   [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]

"It's good to know, but it's better to understand."  Auze Jackson
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#17
Thank you all, Some good information and food for thought here...and likely saved me some money as well.
For The Love Of Wood
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#18
Shellac wipes on easily. I used to use a brush on curved surfaces. Eveven rattle can works better. Get a cheap spray unit. Rob's advice is good overall. Ammonia works great for cleaning but it's toxic and you need to remove it all.
homo homini lupus
"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity." Yeats
Si vis pacem, para bellum
Quodcumque potest manus tua facere instaner opere Ecclesiastes
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#19
>>>> Badger is a good choice,

If you can find it and then afford it. True badger brishle brushes are rare and and when you can find them be prepared to spend somewhere between $100 to $200 or more.

There are some sellers advertizing "badger" brushes but the are faux badger hair. Many advertise "badger hair" like bristles. It's sort of like those finish manufacturers that advertise "tung oil finish" that really has no true tung oil in the product.

When it's all said and done, taklon bristle brushes are the best choice. But don't look for any magic. Brushing shellac is something that needs practice to do well and end up with a nice surface. Practice on scrap until can apply it well. Spraying is the best application method.
Howie.........
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#20
Howard Acheson said:


>>>> Badger is a good choice,

If you can find it and then afford it. True badger brishle brushes are rare and and when you can find them be prepared to spend somewhere between $100 to $200 or more.





They were a bit less in 1972.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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