Removing paint
#11
Wasn't sure whether to ask this in finishes or here, but here goes.

Redoing my son's room, pulled up the carpeting and SWMBO likes the look of the wood flooring underneath. Both the floor and the finish are in great shape. Problem is the previous owner had painted the room pink for their daughter and got some paint on the floor (36 years ago). Any way to remove the paint without ruining the finish? Hate to have to redo the entire floor for paint in a few areas.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#12
I'd try a razor blade or sharp chisel and fine sandpaper -- the paint may be stuck to the floor finish and come off easily.
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#13
Wild Turkey said:


I'd try a razor blade or sharp chisel and fine sandpaper -- the paint may be stuck to the floor finish and come off easily.





I'd be more afraid of damaging the wood, much less the finish, with a chisel or blade.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#14
Try Goop.

If that does not work, try dabbing the orange paint stripper just on the paint.

Finish on the floor is either varnish or poly. Varnish spot repairs decently. Poly can be hand rubbed(several coats) to get a fair finish match.
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#15
Go with the chemical solution as opposed to the mechanical.

Probably latex paint, which will soften and get removed with several
different products. I would try some "Krud Kutter" first.

If you use chisel/scraper/razor, etc. in all likelihood you will
end up damaging/scratching places here and there, no matter how careful you are.
Mark Singleton

Bene vivendo est optimum vindictae


The Laws of Physics do not care about your Politics   -  Me
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#16
K. L, McReynolds said:


Try Goop.

If that does not work, try dabbing the orange paint stripper just on the paint.

Finish on the floor is either varnish or poly. Varnish spot repairs decently. Poly can be hand rubbed(several coats) to get a fair finish match.




Didn't think of goop, will give that a try, someone at work told me rubbing alc.

I have to think varnish, this is an early 50's home, I don't think poly was used much then.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#17
MarkSingleton said:


Go with the chemical solution as opposed to the mechanical.

Probably latex paint, which will soften and get removed with several
different products. I would try some "Krud Kutter" first.

If you use chisel/scraper/razor, etc. in all likelihood you will
end up damaging/scratching places here and there, no matter how careful you are.




Agreed. I have goop here, so will give that a shot, if not then I can pick up some krud. Didn't want to go that route because it's only two spots smaller than a baseball (cheap).
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#18
I'd start with a plastic razor blade. With luck, the floor was waxed at some point and the paint will pop off.

Why do people put wall to wall carpeting on top of hardwood floors?

John
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#19
Scouter said:


I'd be more afraid of damaging the wood, much less the finish, with a chisel or blade.



Use a single edge razor blade & be done with it. You won't be gouging out a canoe from a tree trunk, just gently scraping the paint off the floor.
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#20
jteneyck said:


I'd start with a plastic razor blade. With luck, the floor was waxed at some point and the paint will pop off.

Why do people put wall to wall carpeting on top of hardwood floors?

John




Well, in this case, being a kid's bedroom, I would guess to keep the sound level down.

Plastic razor blade? never heard of them.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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